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Science supporting Gulf of Mexico oil-spill response, mitigation, and restoration activities-Assessment, monitoring, mapping, and coordination

The St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center of the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) investigates physical processes related to coastal and marine environments and societal implications related to natural hazards, resource sustainability, and environmental change. Immediately after the Deepwater Horizon event, the USGS began responding to data requests, directing response personnel, and providing coastal and shelf geophysical data to coastal-resource managers. The USGS provided oil-spill responders with up-to-date coastal bathymetry, geologic data, and maps characterizing vulnerability and levels of risk from potential spill impacts in Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama. Baseline conditions prior to any spill impacts were documented through programs that included shoreline sampling and sediment coring from east Texas to the east coast of Florida and aerial photography of many environmentally sensitive Gulf coastal areas. The USGS responded to numerous verbal and written data requests from Federal, State, and local partners and academic institutions with USGS scientific staff participating in the Coast Guard Unified Commands (UC) and Operational Science Advisory Teams (OSAT). The USGS conducted technical review of reports and plans for many response activities. Oil-spill responders, managers, and personnel on the ground, including partners such as the National Park Service, Gulf Islands National Seashore, Chandeleur Islands Refuge, and State agencies, continue to rely on USGS products.

General Information Product

Archival policies and collections database for the Woods Hole Science Center's marine sediment samples

The Woods Hole Science Center of the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) has been an active member of the Woods Hole research community, Woods Hole, Massachusetts, for over 40 years. In that time there have been many projects that involved the collection of sediment samples conducted by USGS scientists and technicians for the research and study of seabed environments and processes. These samples were collected at sea or near shore and then brought back to the Woods Hole Science Center (WHSC) for analysis. While at the center, samples are stored in ambient temperature, refrigerated and freezing conditions ranging from +2º Celsius to -18º Celsius, depending on the best mode of preparation for the study being conducted or the duration of storage planned for the samples. Recently, storage methods and available storage space have become a major concern at the WHSC. The core and sediment archive program described herein has been initiated to set standards for the management, methods, and duration of sample storage. A need has arisen to maintain organizational consistency and define storage protocol. This handbook serves as a reference and guide to all parties interested in using and accessing the WHSC's sample archive and also defines all the steps necessary to construct and maintain an organized collection of geological samples. It answers many questions as to the way in which the archive functions.

Open-File Report

Atlas of nonindigenous marine and estuarine species in the North Pacific

Executive Summary Marine and estuarine nonindigenous species (NIS) are found across the world’s oceans, and designing effective management strategies to mitigate this economic, ecological and human health threat requires a basic understanding of the existing invasion patterns at regional to global scales. However, to date, syntheses at ocean basin scales have essentially been nonexistent. To fill the gap for the North Pacific, we synthesized the distributions, invasion history, environmental tolerances, and natural history of the near-coastal nonindigenous species (NIS) reported from the member countries of the North Pacific Marine Science Organization (PICES; United States, Canada, China, Republic of Korea, Japan, and Russia). The hierarchical “Marine Ecoregions of the World” (MEOW) biogeographic schema was used as the framework for assessing species’ distributions, with the modification that we added a “region” level to differentiate eastern and western sides of oceans. The two North Pacific regions are the Northeast Pacific (NEP), which extends from the Gulf of California to the Aleutian Islands, and the Northwest Pacific (NWP), which extends from the East China Sea to the Kamchatka Shelf. To have complete coverage of the United States, we included the MEOW Hawaii Ecoregion as a separate reporting unit. To have complete coverage of Japan and China, we combined five MEOW ecoregions in southern China and Japan into the North Central-Indo Pacific (NCIP) Region. The various types of information were synthesized in a Microsoft Access database, the “PICES Nonindigenous Species Information System”, which is further described in the “User’s Guide and Metadata for the PICES Nonindigenous Species Information System” (Lee et al., 2012). The PICES database was then used to generate two-page “species profiles” that map the native and introduced distributions of each species and provide a standardized summary of its invasion history, environmental tolerances, and natural history. These species profiles form the bulk of the “Atlas of Nonindigenous Marine and Estuarine Species in the North Pacific”. A total of 747 near-coastal nonindigenous species were identified in the PICES countries, with four phyla (Arthropoda, Chordata, Mollusca, and Annelida) constituting more than 70% of these invaders. The NEP and Hawaii have similar numbers of reported nonindigenous species, 368 and 347, respectively. In comparison, the NWP has about 60% of the number of reported NIS, 208. The NCIP contains only 73 NIS, though there is limited information for these ecoregions. When evaluated at an individual MEOW ecoregion scale, the Hawaii Ecoregion was the most invaded with 347 invaders, followed by the Northern California Ecoregion, which includes the San Francisco Estuary, with 287 NIS. The most invaded ecoregion in the NWP was the Central Kuroshio Current Ecoregion, which includes Tokyo Bay, with 87 reported NIS. Eight potential reasons for this geographical discrepancy in the extent of invasion were considered. The two most important appear to be: 1) the milder temperature regimes in the NEP and Hawaii are more conducive for NWP species to invade the NEP and Hawaii than the reverse and 2) there has been a greater search effort for NIS in Hawaii and the NEP at least for certain taxonomic groups. In terms of how the NIS were transported, hull fouling was potentially the most important vector in the NEP, NWP, and Hawaii, with ballast water discharges the second most important in all three regions. Intentional stocking and aquaculture escapees were relatively more important in the NWP than the NEP or Hawaii, reflecting the extensive aquaculture in Asia. Aquaculture associated species (i.e., aquaculture hitchhikers) was relatively important in the NEP, reflecting the historical influx of invaders with the importation of Atlantic and Pacific oysters.

Report

User’s guide and metada for the PICES Nonindigenous Species Information System

Introduction Welcome to the PICES Nonindigenous Species Information System, a Microsoft Access database that displays the biogeographic distributions, invasion status, vectors, and key life history attributes of the approximately 740 reported nonindigenous species (NIS) in the estuarine and near-coastal habitats of the North Pacific and Hawaii. This database was developed by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Geological Survey under the auspices of Working Group 21 (Invasive Species) of the North Pacific Marine Science Organization (PCIES). The PICES database contains the data used to generate the “Atlas of Nonindigenous Marine and Estuarine Species in the North Pacific” (Lee and Reusser, 2012; herein referred to as the “Atlas”). The User’s Guide provides instructions on how to use the PICES database as well as metadata for the database and the Atlas. We note that for most users, the Atlas provides a simpler approach to accessing key information on NIS in the PICES countries than the database, though the database does provide additional information on species and sources as well as allowing users to extract information on specific taxa and/or locations (see Section 4). The PICES database also includes species reported from the PICES Rapid Assessment Surveys (RAS). PICES sponsored four rapid assessment surveys with the objective of quickly characterizing the native, non-native, and cryptogenic species present in different locations. Surveys were sponsored in Dalian, China in 2008, Jeju, Korea in 2009, Newport, Oregon, USA in 2010, and Peter the Great Bay, near Vladivostok and Nakhodka, Russia in 2011 ( http://www.pices.int/publications/pices_press/volume19/v19_n1/pp_30-31_Kobe-WS_f.pdf , http://www.pices.int/publications/pices_press/volume20/v20_n1/pp_26-29_RAS-2011.pdf ). The PICES database contains the RAS species that were made available in time for inclusion. Thus, the database does not capture all the species found in these surveys. In addition, much of the information on the RAS species was provided by the experts conducting the survey, and their distributions, environmental requirements, and life history attributes were not evaluated to the same level of detail by the PICES authors as the North Pacific NIS. In lieu of the more extensive review as conduced with the Atlas species, the information on the RAS species needs to be considered preliminary. Additionally, it is important to use the “Map All Distributions” option (see Section 3.6.6) when mapping their distribution or conducting a query. The general reference for the RAS surveys in the PICES database is “PICES Working Group 21, YEAR SURVEY”. The overall goal of both the database and Atlas was to simplify and standardize the dissemination of distributional, habitat, and life history characteristics of near-coastal and estuarine nonindigenous species. This database provides a means of querying these data and displaying the information in a consistent format. The specific classes of information the database captures include: Regional and global ranges of native and nonindigenous near-coastal and estuarine species at different hierarchical spatial scales. Habitat and physiological requirements of near-coastal and estuarine species. Life history characteristics of near-coastal and estuarine species. Invasion history and vectors for nonindigenous species. This standardized and synthesized data in the database and the Atlas provide the basic information needed to address a number of managerial and scientific needs. Thus, users will be able to: Create a baseline on the extent of invasion by region in order to assess new invasions. Use existing geographical patterns of invasion to gain some insights into potential new invaders. Use existing geographical patters of invasion to gain some insights into mechanisms affecting relative invasibility of different areas. Use life history attributes and environmental requirements of the reported nonindigenous species to evaluate traits of invaders. Understand the potential spread of invaders based on their habitat and environmental requirements. Understand importance of different vectors of introduction of nonindigenous species by region. The data in the Atlas of Nonindigenous Marine and Estuarine Species in the North Pacific (Lee and Reusser, 2012) are up-to-date as of June 2012. Updates to the PICES database were made in September 2012.

Report

The "H," "A," and "B" of a HAB: A definitional framework

The use of the phrase “harmful algal bloom” and the acronym HAB originated in the marine science world, and referred to blooms also known as red tides, which can kill fish and sea life. The organisms that make up marine HABs generally do not thrive in lakes. In freshwater, HABs are most often associated with blooms of toxin-producing cyanobacteria. The term HAB started to be used broadly in the early 2000s to encompass both marine and freshwater phenomena. Beyond just lakes, cyanobacterial blooms occur in reservoirs, impoundments, streams, rivers, estuaries, or brackish water all over the world (Meriluoto 2017). In addition to cyanobacteria, other freshwater algal groups can accumulate and lead to detrimental impacts on humans, animals, the environment, and the economy.

Lakeline

Landscape and climate science and scenarios for Florida

The Peninsular Florida Landscape Conservation Cooperative (PFLCC) is part of a network of 22 Landscape Conservation Cooperatives (LCCs) that extend from Alaska to the Caribbean. LCCs are regional-applied conservation-science partnerships among Federal agencies, regional organizations, States, tribes, nongovernmental organizations (NGOs), private stakeholders, universities, and other entities within a geographic area. The goal of these conservation-science partnerships is to help inform managers and decision makers at a landscape scale to further the principles of adaptive management and strategic habitat conservation. A major focus for LCCs is to help conservation managers and decision makers respond to large-scale ecosystem and habitat stressors, such as climate change, habitat fragmentation, invasive species, and water scarcity. The purpose of the PFLCC is to facilitate planning, design, and implementation of conservation strategies for fish and wildlife species at the landscape level using the adaptive management framework of strategic habitat conservation—integrating planning, design, delivery, and evaluation. Florida faces a set of unique challenges when responding to regional and global stressors because of its unique ecosystems and assemblages of species, its geographic location at the crossroads of temperate and tropical climates, and its exposure to both rapid urbanization and rising sea levels as the climate warms. In response to these challenges, several landscape-scale science projects were initiated with the goal of informing decision makers about how potential changes in climate and the built environment could impact habitats and ecosystems of concern in Florida and the Southeast United States. In June 2012, the PFLCC, North Carolina State University, convened a workshop at the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) Coastal and Marine Science Center in St. Petersburg to assess the results of these integrated assessments and to foster an open dialogue about science gaps and future research needs.

Florida

Coastal circulation and water-column properties in the War in the Pacific National Historical Park, Guam: measurements and modeling of waves, currents, temperature, salinity, and turbidity, April-August 2012

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center (PCMSC) initiated an investigation in the National Park Service’s (NPS) War in the Pacific National Historical Park (WAPA) to provide baseline scientific information on coastal circulation and water-column properties along west-central Guam, focusing on WAPA’s Agat Unit, as it relates to the transport and settlement of coral larvae, fish, and other marine organisms. The oceanographic data and numerical circulation modeling results from this study demonstrate that circulation in Agat Bay was strongly driven by winds and waves at longer (>1 day) timescales and by the tides at shorter (<1 day) timescales; near-surface currents in deep water were primarily controlled by the winds, whereas currents on the shallow reef flats were dominated by wave-driven motions. Water-column properties exhibited strong seasonality coupled to the shift from the trade wind to the non-trade wind season. During the dry trade-wind season, waters were cooler and more saline. When the winds shifted to a more variable pattern, waters warmed and became less saline because of a combination of increased thermal insolation from lack of wind forcing and higher rainfall. Turbidity was relatively low in Agat Bay and was similar to levels measured elsewhere along west-central Guam. The numerical circulation modeling results provide insight into the potential paths of buoyant material released from a series of locations along west-central Guam under summer non-trade wind forcing conditions that characterize coral spawning events. This information may be useful in evaluating the potential zones of influence/impact resulting from transport by surface currents of material released from these select locations.

Agat Bay;War In The Pacific National Historical Pa

A seasonal and spatial comparison of metals, and stable carbon and nitrogen isotopes, in Chincoteague Bay and the marsh deposits of Assateague Island and the adjacent vicinity, Maryland and Virginia

After Hurricane Sandy, scientists from the U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center conducted a seasonal collection of estuarine, marsh, and sandy overwash surface sediments from Chincoteague Bay, Tom’s Cove, and the surrounding Assateague Island and Delmarva Peninsula in March–April and October 2014. Surplus surface sediment was analyzed for metals, percent carbon and nitrogen, δ 13 C, and δ 15 N as part of a complementary U.S. Geological Survey Coastal and Marine Geology Program Sea-level and Storm Impacts on Estuarine Environments and Shorelines project study. The geochemical subsample analyzed for metals and stable isotopes at each site may be used for comparison with past data sets, to create a modern baseline of the natural distribution of the area, to understand seasonal variability as it relates to the health of the local environment, and to assess marsh-to-bay interactions. The use of metals, stable carbon, and stable nitrogen isotopes allows for a more cohesive snapshot of factors influencing the environment and could aid in tracking environmental change. This report serves as an archive for chemical data derived from the surface sediment. Data are available for a seasonal comparison between the March–April 2014 and October 2014 sampling trips. Downloadable data are available as Microsoft Excel spreadsheets. These additional files include formal Federal Geographic Data Committee metadata ( data downloads ).

Maryland, Virginia

Sediment data collected in 2010 from Cat Island, Mississippi

Scientists from the U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, in collaboration with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, conducted geophysical and sedimentological surveys in 2010 around Cat Island, Mississippi, which is the westernmost island in the Mississippi-Alabama barrier island chain. The objective of the study was to understand the geologic evolution of Cat Island relative to other barrier islands in the northern Gulf of Mexico by identifying relationships between the geologic history, present day morphology, and sediment distribution. This data series serves as an archive of terrestrial and marine sediment vibracores collected August 4-6 and October 20-22, 2010, respectively. Geographic information system data products include marine and terrestrial core locations and 2007 shoreline data. Additional files include marine and terrestrial core description logs, core photos, results of sediment grain-size analyses, optically stimulated luminescence dating and carbon-14 dating locations and results, Field Activity Collection System logs, and formal Federal Geographic Data Committee metadata.

Mississippi

Insights from growing Globorotalia truncatulinoides and Globorotalia menardii in the laboratory

The vast majority of planktic foraminiferal culture studies have been carried out on spinose species of foraminifera, with relatively few studies on non-spinose species. We conducted a pilot study to test whether live specimens of the non-spinose planktic foraminifera, Globorotalia truncatulinoides and Globorotalia menardii , could be successfully harvested from offshore plankton tow samples in the Gulf of America (Gulf of Mexico) and kept alive in a laboratory at the US Geological Survey St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center. We collected several G. truncatulinoides specimens (n = 39) from the surface mixed-layer (0–80 meters) via vertical plankton tow in February 2020 during a sediment trap mooring recovery cruise. We collected G. menardii (n = 27) from the upper 200 meters of the water column on follow-up cruises in December 2021 and November 2022. The G. truncatulinoides specimens stayed alive in the laboratory for 8–76 days, and G. menardii for 7–29 days. All non-spinose foraminifera in this study showed a strong preference for eating marine snow aggregates from the plankton tow over Artemia nauplii. Using a combination of morphometric observations and geochemical analysis of the foraminiferal tests, we demonstrate that some specimens of both species grew new chambers while in culture, whereas other individuals added a calcite crust to the final whorl. The G. menardii were cultured in 87 Sr-labeled seawater, and laser ablation inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) was used to verify the presence of laboratory-grown calcite. Our results shed light on the feeding behavior and growth patterns in these two upper-ocean species of non-spinose foraminifera. This study demonstrates the feasibility of conducting laboratory culture experiments with G. truncatulinoides and G. menardii collected via plankton tow in the open ocean.

Journal of Foraminiferal Research

Archive of side scan sonar and swath bathymetry data collected during USGS cruise 10CCT03 offshore of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, Mississippi, from East Ship Island, Mississippi, to Dauphin Island, Alabama, April 2010

In April of 2010, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) conducted a geophysical survey from the east end of East Ship Island, Miss., extending to the middle of Dauphin Island, Ala. (fig. 1). This survey had a dual purpose: (1) to interlink previously conducted nearshore geophysical surveys (shoreline to ~2 km) with those of offshore surveys (~2 to ~9 km) in the area, and (2) to extend the geophysical survey to include a portion of the Dauphin Island nearshore zone. The efforts were part of the USGS Gulf of Mexico Science Coordination partnership with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) to assist the Mississippi Coastal Improvements Program (MsCIP) and the Northern Gulf of Mexico (NGOM) Ecosystem Change and Hazards Susceptibility Project by mapping the shallow geological stratigraphic framework of the Mississippi Barrier Island Complex. These geophysical surveys will provide the data necessary for scientists to define, interpret, and provide baseline bathymetry and seafloor habitat for this area and to aid scientists in predicting future geomorpholocial changes of the islands with respect to climate change, storm impact, and sea-level rise. Furthermore, these data will provide information for barrier island restoration feasibility, particularly in Camille Cut, and efforts for the preservation of historical Fort Massachusetts. For more information refer to http://ngom.usgs.gov/gomsc/mscip/. This report serves as an archive of the processed multibeam bathymetry and side scan sonar (SSS) data. Data products herein include gridded and interpolated digital depth surfaces, seabed surface backscatter imagery, and x,y,z data products for both multibeam bathymetry and side scan sonar imagery. Additional files include trackline maps, navigation files, geograpahic information system (GIS) files, Field Activity Collection System (FACS) logs, and formal Federal Geographic Data Committee (FGDC) metadata. Scanned images of the handwritten FACS logs and digital FACS logs are also provided as PDF files. Refer to the Acronyms page for description of acronyms and abbreviations used in this report or hold the cursor over an acronym for a pop-up explanation. The USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center assigns a unique identifier to each cruise or field activity. For example, 10CCT03 tells us the data were collected in 2010 for the Coastal Change and Transport (CCT) study and the data were collected during the third (03) field activity for that project in that calendar year. Refer to http://walrus.wr.usgs.gov/infobank/programs/html/definition/activity.html for a detailed description of the method used to assign the field activity ID. Data were collected aboard the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) SV Irvington , a 56-foot (ft) Kvichak Marine Industries, Inc., catamaran (fig. 2). Side scan sonar and multibeam bathymetry data were collected simultaneously along the tracklines. The side scan sonar towfish was towed off the starboard side just slightly behind the vessel, close to the seafloor. The multibeam transducer was attached to a retractable strut-arm lowered between the catamaran hulls. Navigation was acquired with an Applanix POS MV and differentially corrected using the broadcast signal from a local National Geodetic Survey (NGS) Continuously Operating Reference Station (CORS) beacon. See the digital FACS equipment log for details about the acquisition equipment used. Raw datasets were stored digitally and processed using HYPACK Inc., HYSWEEP software at the USACE Mobile, Ala., District office. For more information on processing refer to the Equipment and Processing page. Chirp seismic data were also collected during this survey and are archived separately.

Gulf Islands National Seashore

Archive of digital chirp subbottom profile data collected during USGS cruise 10BIM04 offshore Cat Island, Mississippi, September 2010

In September of 2010, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), in cooperation with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), conducted a geophysical survey to investigate the geologic controls on barrier island framework of Cat Island, Miss., as part of a broader USGS study on Barrier Island Mapping (BIM). These surveys were funded through the Mississippi Coastal Improvements Program (MsCIP) and the Northern Gulf of Mexico (NGOM) Ecosystem Change and Hazard Susceptibility Project as part of the Holocene Coastal Evolution of the Mississippi-Alabama Region Subtask. This report serves as an archive of unprocessed digital chirp subbottom data, trackline maps, navigation files, GIS files, Field Activity Collection System (FACS) logs, and formal FGDC metadata. Gained (showing a relative increase in signal amplitude) digital images of the seismic profiles are also provided. Refer to the Acronyms page for expansions of acronyms and abbreviations used in this report. The USGS Saint Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center (SPCMSC) assigns a unique identifier to each cruise or field activity. For example, 10BIM04 tells us the data were collected in 2010 during the fourth field activity for that project in that calendar year. Refer to http://walrus.wr.usgs.gov/infobank/programs/html/definition/activity.html for a detailed description of the method used to assign the field activity identification (ID). All chirp systems use a signal of continuously varying frequency; the EdgeTech SB-512i system used during this survey produces high-resolution, shallow-penetration (typically less than 50 milliseconds (ms)) profile images of sub-seafloor stratigraphy. The towfish contains a transducer that transmits and receives acoustic energy; it was housed within a float system (built at the SPCMSC), which allows the towfish to be towed at a constant depth of 1.07 meters (m) below the sea surface. As transmitted acoustic energy intersects density boundaries, such as the seafloor or sub-surface sediment layers, some energy is reflected back toward the transducer, received, and recorded by a Personal Computer (PC)-based seismic acquisition system. This process is repeated at regular time intervals (for example, 0.125 seconds (s)), and returned energy is recorded for a specific duration (for example, 50 ms). In this way, a two-dimensional (2-D) vertical image of the shallow geologic structure beneath the ship track is produced. Figure 1 displays the acquisition geometry. Refer to table 1 for a summary of acquisition parameters and table 2 for trackline statistics. The archived trace data are in standard Society of Exploration Geophysicists (SEG) SEG Y rev. 0 format (Barry and others, 1975); the first 3,200 bytes of the card image header are in American Standard Code for Information Interchange (ASCII) format instead of Extended Binary Coded Decimal Interchange Code (EBCDIC) format. The SEG Y files may be downloaded and processed with commercial or public domain software such as Seismic Unix (SU) (Cohen and Stockwell, 2010). See the How To Download SEG Y Data page for download instructions. The printable profiles provided here are GIF images that were processed and gained using SU software, and they can be viewed from the Profiles page or from links located on the trackline maps; refer to the Software page for links to example SU processing scripts. The SEG Y files are available on the DVD version of this report or on the Web, downloadable via the USGS Coastal and Marine Geoscience Data System (http://cmgds.marine.usgs.gov). The data are also available for viewing using GeoMapApp (http://www.geomapapp.org) and Virtual Ocean (http://www.virtualocean.org) multi-platform open source software.

Mississippi

Archive of digital chirp subbottom profile data collected during USGS cruise 12BIM03 offshore of the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, July 2012

From July 23 - 31, 2012, the U.S. Geological Survey conducted geophysical surveys to investigate the geologic controls on barrier island framework and long-term sediment transport along the oil spill mitigation sand berm constructed at the north end and just offshore of the Chandeleur Islands, La. (figure 1). This effort is part of a broader USGS study, which seeks to better understand barrier island evolution over medium time scales (months to years). This report serves as an archive of unprocessed digital chirp subbottom data, trackline maps, navigation files, Geographic Information System (GIS) files, Field Activity Collection System (FACS) logs, and formal Federal Geographic Data Committee (FGDC) metadata. Gained (showing a relative increase in signal amplitude) digital images of the seismic profiles are also provided. Refer to the Abbreviations page for expansions of acronyms and abbreviations used in this report. The USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center (SPCMSC) assigns a unique identifier to each cruise or field activity. For example, 12BIM03 tells us the data were collected in 2012 during the third field activity for that project in that calendar year and BIM is a generic code, which represents efforts related to Barrier Island Mapping. Refer to http://walrus.wr.usgs.gov/infobank/programs/html/definition/activity.html for a detailed description of the method used to assign the field activity ID. All chirp systems use a signal of continuously varying frequency; the EdgeTech SB-424 system used during this survey produces high-resolution, shallow-penetration (typically less than 50 milliseconds (ms)) profile images of sub-seafloor stratigraphy. The towfish contains a transducer that transmits and receives acoustic energy and is typically towed 1 - 2 m below the sea surface. As transmitted acoustic energy intersects density boundaries, such as the seafloor or sub-surface sediment layers, energy is reflected back toward the transducer, received, and recorded by a PC-based seismic acquisition system. This process is repeated at regular time intervals (for example, 0.125 seconds (s)) and returned energy is recorded for a specific duration (for example, 50 ms). In this way, a two-dimensional (2-D) vertical image of the shallow geologic structure beneath the ship track is produced. Figure 2 displays the acquisition geometry. Refer to table 1 for a summary of acquisition parameters and table 2 for trackline statistics. The archived trace data are in standard Society of Exploration Geophysicists (SEG) SEG Y rev. 0 format (Barry and others, 1975); the first 3,200 bytes of the card image header are in ASCII format instead of EBCDIC format. The SEG Y files may be downloaded and processed with commercial or public domain software such as Seismic Unix (SU) (Cohen and Stockwell, 2010). See the How To Download SEG Y Data page for download instructions. The web version of this archive does not contain the SEG Y trace files. These files are very large and would require extremely long download times. To obtain the complete DVD archive, contact USGS Information Services at 1-888-ASK-USGS or infoservices@usgs.gov. The printable profiles provided here are GIF images that were processed and gained using SU software and can be viewed from the Profiles page or from links located on the trackline maps; refer to the Software page for links to example SU processing scripts. The SEG Y files are available on the DVD version of this report or on the Web, downloadable via the USGS Coastal and Marine Geoscience Data System (http://cmgds.marine.usgs.gov). The data are also available for viewing using GeoMapApp (http://www.geomapapp.org) and Virtual Ocean (http://www.virtualocean.org) multi-platform open source software. Detailed information about the navigation system used can be found in table 1 and the Field Activity Collection System (FACS) logs. To view the trackline maps and navigation files, and for more information about these items, see the Navigation page.

Louisiana

A socio-ecological imperative for broadening participation in coastal and estuarine research and management

For most of the scientific disciplines associated with coastal and estuarine research, workforce representation does not match the demographics of communities we serve, especially for Black, Hispanic or Latino, and Indigenous peoples. This essay provides an overview of this inequity and identifies how a scientific society can catalyze representational, structural, and interactional diversity to achieve greater inclusion. Needed changes go beyond representational diversity and require an intentional commitment to build capacity through inclusivity and community engagement by supporting anti-racist policies and actions. We want to realize a sense of belonging on the part of scientists in society at large and enable research pursuits through a lens of social justice in service of coastal communities. Minimally, this framework offers an avenue for increased recruitment of individuals from more diverse racial and ethnic identities. More broadly, the mechanisms described here aim to create a culture in scientific societies in which social justice, driven by anti-racist actions, produces systemic change in how members of scientific societies approach, discuss, and address issues of inequity. We have written this essay for members of the coastal and marine science community who are interested in change. We aim to call in new voices, allies, and champions to this work.

Estuaries and Coasts

Doctorate time rising sharply: How long should it take?

The period 1967–1987 saw a 20% increase in the time it takes to complete the doctorate. That figure is based on data provided by the National Research Council from 11 scientific and engineering fields, including the Earth, atmospheric and marine sciences. The median time spent earning the degree rose from 5.4 years in 1967 to 6.1 years in 1977 to 6.9 years in 1987—an increase of 1.5 years in a single generation. Completion time still seems to be rising! All graduating doctoral students in 1987 had a median age of 33.6 years; chemistry students were youngest at 29, and education students were the oldsters at 39.8 years.

Eos, Transactions, American Geophysical Union

Using the Lomb-Scargle method for wave statistics from gappy time series

Sandwich Town Neck Beach in Sandwich, MA, has experienced substantial erosion and has been the subject of efforts by the town and private landowners to limit the sand loss. Erosion has been particularly dramatic in the past five years with the loss of dwellings. Sandwich's nourishment efforts presented a unique opportunity for scientists at the U.S. Geological Survey Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center to monitor beach morphology and to test new technologies and techniques such as geo-referenced drone imaging. Two bottom lander deployments were performed in Cape Cod Bay at a location that was key to model the fate of waves at Sandwich Town Neck Beach and to support the study of beach morphological evolution. The study period was after the town nourished the beach and during a time when several intense winter storms reshaped the beach and removed much of the nourished sand. A TRDI Workhorse Sentinel V ADCP was used for both deployments. For wave bursts, the instruments collected 2048 samples at 2 Hz every hour. The first deployment during the winter of 2016 returned good quality data. The second deployment during the following winter had gaps throughout the time series from a wiring problem in the external battery pack. The timing of the gaps was random, the duration approximately 100 s. While most of the bursts started at the top of each hour, many had 1-3 gaps within. Time series data with random gaps are problematic for computing spectral density, and thus, wave statistics. This kind of situation is familiar in other scientific disciplines such as astrophysics [1], where techniques exist to find stationary signals in sparse data. One of these methods is the Lomb-Scargle technique for computing periodograms. The most useful feature of the Lomb-Scargle (LS) method is that it allows the spectral analysis of incomplete records, without having to manipulate the record to extrapolate from or replace missing data. We compared the effectiveness of LS against common methods of averaging Fourier transforms such as a simple un-windowed Fast Fourier transform (FFT), Welch's method, and TRDI's Wavesmon software; methods that are commonly used in oceanography for non-gappy data. Synthetic data series that have been artificially modified to introduce gaps were used to evaluate the performance of each method. The LS approach was able to recover spectral density even with several 100-s gaps present. The method was applied here to the gappy and non-gappy data from both Sandwich deployments, and wave statistics were obtained and compared to the wave-buoy data. LS was used to process data that contains gaps that was rejected by Wavesmon, which was approximately 39% of the dataset. Significant wave height and peak period from LS compared well with buoy data. Mean period computed on gappy data using LS produced values biased low, compared with other methods when gaps were filled with the mean value. The LS technique has potential to uncover low-frequency signals such as infragravity waves from gappy records where the non-gappy segments are not long enough to resolve them. It has potential to unlock new information from older data sets.

Massachusetts

Observations of ocean circulation and sediment transport experiment offshore of Fire Island, NY

Researchers from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center (WHCMSC), in collaboration with Coastal Carolina University (CCU) and University of South Carolina (USC), conducted a scientific field study to investigate the ocean circulation and sediment transport processes offshore of Fire Island, NY. Although the physical processes along the entire linear extent of Fire Island (~50 km) are of interest to the project, one particular region of focus is at the western end of the island where offshore sand ridges out to depths of 20 m extend across the inner shelf and connect to the near-shore bar system. The primary objective was to measure the physical processes around the sand ridges, including circulation patterns, wave parameters, bottom stress, and suspended sediment. Transects of instrumentation were positioned along and across the crests and troughs of the ridge field. A site at the top of a ridge and a site at the bottom of an adjacent trough were each populated with two tripods designed to provide high-resolution measurements near the sea-bed to record sediment re-suspension events. Measurements at these two sites include near bottom velocity profiles, acoustic Doppler velocimeters, pressure, optical transmission and backscatter at high sampling rates. Other measurements include upward looking velocity profiles, temperature, salinity, sonar images and profiles, and sediment size classes. Five smaller tripods were deployed to complete lines alongshore and across shore over a 5 km area to provide a regional picture. These tripods recorded upward looking velocity profiles and near bottom temperature, pressure and salinity. Surface buoys marked the position of the tripods and collected surface measurements at six of the sites. One buoy gathered meteorological measurements. The sites were occupied from January to April, 2012. This deployment was similar to previous efforts off Cape Hatteras, NC, in 2009, and is part of an ongoing effort to understand regional patterns in circulation and sediment transport and the interaction of inner shelf and near shore processes. New instrumentation for the USGS was introduced, including a variety of current and wave measurement equipment, acquisition and telemetry in near-realtime of the weather data, time series sonar imaging equipment, and anti-fouling wipers. Preliminary results suggest a complex and subtle relationship between wind and across shore current velocity in this region, and a more straightforward relationship between winds and alongshore currents. This paper also includes a preliminary report on the effectiveness of new measurement techniques used during this experiment.

New York

Origin of the 17 July 1998 Papua New Guinea tsunami: Earthquake or landslide

The tsunami that struck Papua New Guinea on 17 July 1998 shortly after a M w 7.0 earthquake ( Figure 1 ) was one of the deadliest tsunamis in this century. At least 2,200 people died from this event, essentially destroying an entire generation in some communities. In the months following the tsunami, several international survey teams collected data in an attempt to better understand the cause of this event. Elevations of waterline marks and displaced debris measured by the first International Tsunami Survey Team (ITST; Kawata et al., 1999 ) indicated an average runup of 10 m occurring over a 25 km length of coastline in the vicinity of Sissano Lagoon ( Figure 2 ). The maximum runup from this event was approximately 15 m. Tsunami runup heights of this size are commonly associated either with earthquakes of much larger magnitude or with “tsunami earthquakes” as defined by Kanamori ( 1972 ) and later discussed by Kanamori and Kikuchi ( 1993 ). Even for tsunami earthquakes, however, runup heights of 10-15 m seem only to occur for earthquakes M w > 7.5. Because these runup heights appear anomalously high for a M 7 earthquake, other sources have been postulated for the tsunami, including a submarine landslide or mass flow. Earlier this year, the bathymetry north of Papua New Guinea was surveyed by the Japan Marine Science and Technology Center (JAMSTEC) and the South Pacific Applied Geoscience Commission (SOPAC). In a report describing the preliminary results from these cruises ( Tappin et al. , 1999 ), bathymetric images are presented that show evidence both of a 40-km-long fault scarp and of collapse features within an approximately 10-km-wide bathymetric amphitheater ( Figure 2 ). The report suggests that a landslide was the sole cause for the tsunami. In this paper, I revisit the common assumption that local tsunami runup scales directly with moment magnitude and demonstrate that the tsunami generated by the earthquake cannot be disregarded to explain the runup observations.

Seismological Research Letters