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At least 1,207 records · Page 67Linked to original sources
USGS2023

Development and application of an Infragravity Wave (InWave) driver to simulate nearshore processes

Infragravity waves are key components of the hydro-sedimentary processes in coastal areas, especially during extreme storms. Accurate modeling of coastal erosion and breaching requires consideration of the effects of infragravity waves. Here, we present InWave, a new infragravity wave driver of the Coupled Ocean-Atmopshere-Waves-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system. InWave computes the spatial and temporal variation of wave energy at the wave group scale and the associated incoming bound infragravity wave. Wave group-varying forces drive free infragravity wave growth and propagation within the hydrodynamic model of the coupled modeling system, which is the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) in this work. Since ROMS is a three-dimensional model, this coupling allows for the combined formation of undertow currents and infragravity waves. We verified the coupled InWave-ROMS with one idealized test case, one laboratory experiment, and one field experiment. The coupled modeling system correctly reproduced the propagation of gravity wave energy with acceptable numerical dissipation. It also captured the transfer of energy from the gravity band to the infragravity band, and within the different infragravity bands in the surf zone, the measured three-dimensional flow structure, and dune morphological evolution satisfactorily. The idealized case demonstrated that the infragravity wave variance depends on the directional resolution and horizontal grid resolution, which are known challenges with the approach taken here. The addition of InWave to COAWST enables novel investigation of nearshore hydro-sedimentary dynamics driven by infragravity waves using the strengths of the other modeling components, namely the three-dimensional nature of ROMS and the sediment transport routines.

Journal of Advances in Modeling Earth Systems↗
USGS2005

Petrography, structure, age, and thermal history of granitic coastal plain basement in the Chesapeake Bay impact structure, USGS-NASA Langley core, Hampton, Virginia

The USGS-NASA Langley corehole at Hampton , Va., was drilled in 2000 and was the first corehole to reach coastal plain basement in the late Eocene Chesapeake Bay impact structure . The Langley core provided samples of granite that had been concealed by 626.3 meters (2,054.7 feet) of preimpact, synimpact, and postimpact sediments. The granite, here named the Langley Granite, is pale red, medium grained, massive, and homogeneous in composition and fabric. It has a peraluminous composition (alumina saturation index 1.1) and a seriate-inequigranular, hypidiomorphic, isotropic fabric. A pervasive secondary mineral assemblage of chlorite + albite + clinozoisite is consistent with either deuteric alteration or lower greenschist-facies metamorphism. Chlorite, the principal mafic mineral, occurs as tabular masses that suggest pseudomorphous replacement of biotite. The top of the granite is weathered but not saprolitized and is nonconformably overlain by Lower Cretaceous clastic sediments. A SHRIMP 206 Pb/ 238 U weighted average zircon age of 612±10 Ma (2σ) indicates Neoproterozoic crystallization of the Langley Granite. The 40 Ar/ 39 Ar ages of microcline and plagioclase are consistent with regional cooling and uplift after the late Paleozoic Alleghanian orogeny. Zircon and apatite fission-track cooling ages of 375±44 Ma and 184±32 Ma (2σ), respectively, indicate no discernible impact -related thermal disturbance at the Langley corehole location in the annular trough of the structure about 19 kilometers (12 miles) outside the margin of the central crater. Modeling the apatite fission-track data places upper limits on the impact -related heating at this location. For an impact -related thermal disturbance equivalent to a modeled thermal spike having a duration of 1 to 0.1 million years, temperatures in this part of the impact structure could not have been higher than about 100°C-120°C. Most fractures, faults, and veins in the Langley Granite contain lower greenschist-facies minerals and are inferred to predate the impact . No shock-metamorphosed minerals or other features clearly attributable to the impact were found in the granite. Studies of the granite provide a glimpse into the nature of crystalline terranes beneath the Atlantic Coastal Plain and Chesapeake Bay and provide limits on the geographic extent of impact -generated shock and thermal effects.

Chesapeake Bay↗
USGS1967

Geologic framework and petroleum potential of the Atlantic Coastal Plain and continental shelf, with a section on stratigraphy

The Atlantic Coastal Plain and Continental Shelf of North America is represented by a belt of Mesozoic and Cenozoic rocks, 150 to 300 miles wide and 2,400 miles long, extending from southern Florida to the Grand Banks of Newfoundland. This belt of Mesozoic and Cenozoic rocks encompasses an area of about 400,000 to 450,000 square miles, more than three-fourths of which is covered by the Atlantic Ocean. The volume of Mesozoic and Cenozoic rocks beneath the Atlantic Coastal Plain and Continental Shelf exceeds 450,000 cubic miles, perhaps by a considerable amount. More than one-half of this is seaward far enough to contain marine source rocks in sufficient proportion to attract exploration for oil. A larger fraction, perhaps three-quarters of the volume, may be of interest in exploration for gas. The Coastal Plain consists of land between the crystalline piedmont of the Appalachian System and mean low-tide from southern Florida to the tip of Long Island plus a few small offshore islands and the Cape Cod Peninsula. This is an area of more than 100,000 square miles. The Continental Shelf extends from mean law-tide to the break marking the beginning of the continental rise, which is somewhat less than 600 feet in depth at most places. It is a gently sloping platform, about 350,000 square miles in area, that widens from less than 3 miles off southern Florida to about 285 miles off Newfoundland. The Blake Plateau occupies an area of about 70,000 square miles between the 500 and 5,000-foot bottom contours from the Cape Hatteras vicinity to the northernmost bank of the Bahamas. It has a gentle slope with only minor irregularities and scattered patches of Recent sediments. Both gravity and magnetic anomalies along the Atlantic Coast reflect primarily compositional differences at considerable depths in the earth's crust, but are related to some extent to the structure and composition of the Coastal Plain sedimentary rocks and shallow basement. Four alternating belts of predominantly positive and predominantly negative Bouguer gravity anomalies extend diagonally across the region from southwest to northeast. These correspond roughly with the continental rise and slope, the Continental Shelf and Coastal Plain, the Appalachian Mountain System front, and the Piedmont Plateau-Blue Ridge-Appalachian Basin region.

Atlantic Coastal Plain↗
USGS2016

California State Waters Map Series — Offshore of Monterey, California

Introduction In 2007, the California Ocean Protection Council initiated the California Seafloor Mapping Program (CSMP), designed to create a comprehensive seafloor map of high-resolution bathymetry, marine benthic habitats, and geology within the 3-nautical-mile limit of California’s State Waters. The CSMP approach is to create highly detailed seafloor maps through collection, integration, interpretation, and visualization of swath bathymetry data, acoustic backscatter, seafloor video, seafloor photography, high-resolution seismic-reflection profiles, and bottom-sediment sampling data. The map products display seafloor morphology and character, identify potential marine benthic habitats, and illustrate both the surficial seafloor geology and shallow subsurface geology. The Offshore of Monterey map area in central California is located on the Pacific Coast, about 120 km south of San Francisco. Incorporated cities in the map area include Seaside, Monterey, Marina, Pacific Grove, Carmel-by-the-Sea, and Sand City. The local economy receives significant resources from tourism, as well as from the Federal Government. Tourist attractions include the Monterey Bay Aquarium, Cannery Row, Fisherman’s Wharf, and the many golf courses near Pebble Beach, and the area serves as a gateway to the spectacular scenery and outdoor activities along the Big Sur coast to the south. Federal facilities include the Army’s Defense Language Institute, the Naval Postgraduate School, and the Fleet Numerical Meteorology and Oceanography Center (operated by the Navy). In 1994, Fort Ord army base, located between Seaside and Marina, was closed; much of former army base land now makes up the Fort Ord National Monument, managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management as part of the National Landscape Conservation System. In addition, part of the old Fort Ord is now occupied by California State University, Monterey Bay. The offshore part of the map area lies entirely within the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, one of the nation’s largest marine sanctuaries. State beaches and parks within the map area include Fort Ord Dunes State Park and the Marina, Monterey, and Asilomar State Beaches, as well as Carmel River State Beach, which includes the Carmel River Lagoon and Wetland Natural Preserve. The map area also includes all or part of several State Marine Protected Areas, including the Carmel Pinnacles, Asilomar, and Lovers Point–Julia Platt State Marine Reserves, as well as the Carmel Bay, Pacific Grove Marine Gardens, Edward F. Ricketts, and Portuguese Ledge State Marine Conservation Areas. The coastal zone in the map area is characterized by two distinct physiographies. From Marina to Monterey, sandy beaches are backed by a belt of sand dunes, as much as 30 to 40 m high and as wide as 8 km. The Salinas River supplies the sand for the beaches and dunes. Nearshore sediment transport is primarily to the south, in the southern Monterey littoral cell. Along the Monterey peninsula, which lies at the north end of the rugged Santa Lucia Range, coastal relief is very different. The peninsula is characterized largely by low marine terraces that formed mostly on hard and relatively stable granitic bedrock. Carmel Beach in Carmel-by-the-Sea is the longest continuous beach in this area; bedrock points and small pocket beaches characterize most of the rest of the peninsula. The Carmel River littoral cell extends along the coast from Point Pinos to Point Lobos (just south of the map area), including Carmel Beach; sediment transport is primarily to the south. The granitic rocks that crop out so prominently along the Monterey peninsula make up part of the Salinian block, a crustal terrane that in this area lies west of the San Andreas Fault and east of the San Gregorio Fault. The strike-slip San Andreas Fault Zone, which lies just 26 km east of the map area, is the most important structure within the Pacific–North American transform plate boundary. The San Gregorio Fault, a secondary fault within the distributed plate boundary, cuts through (and is roughly aligned with) Carmel Canyon, a submarine canyon in the southwest corner of the map area that is part of the Monterey Canyon system. The San Gregorio Fault Zone is part of a fault system that is present predominantly in the offshore for about 400 km, from Point Conception in the south (where it is known as the Hosgri Fault) to Bolinas and Point Reyes in the north. The offshore part of the map area primarily consists of relatively flat continental shelf, bounded on the west by the steep flanks of Carmel Canyon. Shelf width varies from 2 to 3 km in the southern part of the map area, near the mouth of Carmel Canyon, to 14 km in Monterey Bay. Bedrock beneath the shelf is overlain in many areas by variable amounts (0 to 16 m) of upper Quaternary shelf and nearshore sediments deposited as sea level fluctuated in the late Pleistocene. “Soft-induration,” unconsolidated sediment is the dominant (about 63 percent) habitat type on the continental shelf, followed by “hard-induration” rock and boulders (about 34 percent) and “mixed-induration” substrate (about 3 percent). At water depths of about 100 to 130 m, the shelf break approximates the shoreline during the sea-level lowstand of the Last Glacial Maximum, about 21,000 years ago. Carmel Canyon and other parts of the Monterey Canyon system in the map area extend from the shelf break to water depths that reach 1,600 m. Most of the extensive incision of the shelf break and canyon flanks probably occurred during repeated Quaternary sea-level lowstands. The relatively straight floor of Carmel Canyon notably is aligned with the San Gregorio Fault Zone. Mixed hard-soft substrate is the most common (about 51 percent) habitat type in Carmel Canyon; hard bedrock and soft, unconsolidated sediment cover about 40 percent and 9 percent of canyon habitat, respectively. This part of the central California coast is exposed to large North Pacific swells from the northwest throughout the year. Wave heights range from 2 to 10 m, the larger swells occurring from October to May. During El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events, winter storms track farther south than they do in normal (non-ENSO) years, thereby impacting the map area more frequently and with waves of larger heights. Benthic species observed in the map area are natives of the cold-temperate biogeographic zone that is called either the “Oregonian province” or the “northern California ecoregion.” This biogeographic province is maintained by the long-term stability of the southward-flowing California Current, the eastern limb of the North Pacific subtropical gyre that flows from southern British Columbia to Baja California. Biological productivity resulting from coastal upwelling supports populations of Sooty Shearwater, Western Gull, Common Murre, Cassin’s Auklet, and many other less populous bird species. An observable recovery of Humpback and Blue Whales has occurred in the area; both species are dependent on coastal upwelling to provide nutrients. The large extent of exposed inner shelf bedrock supports large forests of “bull kelp,” which is well adapted for high-wave-energy environments. The kelp beds are well-known habitat for the population of southern sea otters. Common fish species found in the kelp beds and rocky reefs include lingcod and various species of rockfish and greenling.

California↗
USGS1991

Soil chronosequence studies in temperate to subtropical, low-latitude, low-relief terrain with data from the eastern United States

The Coastal Plain of the eastern United States is a low-latitude, low-altitude, low-relief terrain composed primarily of gently dipping marine and marginal-marine sediments that range in age from Cretaceous to Quaternary. Population density of the area is moderate, and most of the population is concentrated along the coast. Inland of the coast, agriculture, including growing trees for pulp, is the dominant economy. In this region, soils have developed along two different pathways. One pathway is dominated by the dissolution and movement of oxyhydroxides and the accumulation of organic matter; the other by the accumulation of clays and oxyhydroxyides and the adsorption or oxidation of organic matter. The first pathway has resulted in the formation of Spodosols; the second, in the development of Ultisols. No clearly distinguishable age trends have been identified in the Spodosols, but the properties of Ultisols can be measured to quantify surface material alteration through time. Ultisols are, therefore, suited to order-of-magnitude chronostratigraphic interpretations. Potentially, data derived through the study of Ultisols can be used to develop models that predict how surface processes will change due to continued weathering and pedogenesis or as the result of climate change.

Alabama, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Maryland, New↗
USGS2014

Earliest record of the invasive Foraminifera Trochammina hadai in San Francisco Bay, California, USA

In 1995, Trochammina hadai , a benthic Foraminifera prevalent in Japanese estuaries, was found in San Francisco Bay, California, USA. Subsequent field investigations determined that the species was also present in nearly all of the major ports and estuaries along the western United States. Because of its widespread colonization, it is of interest to determine when T. hadai first appeared as an invasive in the coastal regions of the North Pacific. In San Francisco Bay, the species was not found in 404 surface samples collected between 1930 and 1981. In 1983, however, a grab sediment sample from one of four sites in the southern portion of the bay contained T. hadai . This site was the most northern of the four and contained 12 specimens of the invasive, comprising 1.5% of the assemblage. This is the earliest appearance on record of T. hadai in San Francisco Bay.

California↗
USGS2020

Sedimentary evidence of prehistoric distant-source tsunamis in the Hawaiian Islands

Over the past 200 years of written records, the Hawaiian Islands have experienced tens of tsunamis generated by earthquakes in the subduction zones of the Pacific "Ring of Fire" (e.g., Alaska-Aleutian, Kuril-Kamchatka, Chile, and Japan). Mapping and dating anomalous beds of sand and silt deposited by tsunamis in low-lying areas along Pacific coasts, even those distant from subduction zones, is critical for assessing tsunami hazard throughout the Pacific basin. We searched for evidence of tsunami inundation using stratigraphic and sedimentologic analyses of potential tsunami deposits beneath present and former Hawaiian wetlands, coastal lagoons, and river floodplains. Coastal wetland sites on the islands of Hawai΄i, Maui, O΄ahu, and Kaua΄i were selected based on historical tsunami runup, numerical inundation modeling, proximity to sandy source sediments, degree of historical wetland disturbance, and breadth of prior geologic and archaeologic investigations. We interpret sand beds containing marine calcareous sediment within peaty and/or muddy wetland deposits on the north and northeastern shores of Kaua΄i, O΄ahu, and Hawai΄i as tsunami deposits. At some sites, deposits of the 1946 and 1957 Aleutian tsunamis are analogs for deeper, older probable tsunami deposits. Radiocarbon-based age models date sand beds from three sites to ~700-500 cal yr B.P., which overlaps ages for tsunami deposits in the eastern Aleutian Islands that record a local subduction zone earthquake (Witter et al., 2016; Witter et al., 2018). The overlapping modeled ages for tsunami deposits at our sites support a plausible correlation with an eastern Aleutian earthquake source for a large prehistoric tsunami in the Hawaiian Islands.

Hawaii↗
USGS2001

Comparisons of ground motions from the 1999 Chi-Chi, earthquake with empirical predictions largely based on data from California

This article has the modest goal of comparing the ground motions recorded during the 1999 Chi-Chi, Taiwan, mainshock with predictions from four empirical-based equations commonly used for western North America; these empirical predictions are largely based on data from California. Comparisons are made for peak acceleration and 5%-damped response spectra at periods between 0.1 and 4 sec. The general finding is that the Chi-Chi ground motions are smaller than those predicted from the empirically based equations for periods less than about 1 sec by factors averaging about 0.4 but as small as 0.26 (depending on period, on which equation is used, and on whether the sites are assumed to be rock or soil). There is a trend for the observed motions to approach or even exceed the predicted motions for longer periods. Motions at similar distances (30-60 km) to the east and to the west of the fault differ dramatically at periods between about 2 and 20 sec: Long-duration wave trains are present on the motions to the west, and when normalized to similar amplitudes at short periods, the response spectra of the motions at the western stations are as much as five times larger than those of motions from eastern stations. The explanation for the difference is probably related to site and propagation effects; the western stations are on the Coastal Plain, whereas the eastern stations are at the foot of young and steep mountains, either in the relatively narrow Longitudinal Valley or along the eastern coast-the sediments underlying the eastern stations are probably shallower and have higher velocity than those under the western stations.

Bulletin of the Seismological Society of America↗
USGS2009

High-Resolution Geologic Mapping of the Inner Continental Shelf: Cape Ann to Salisbury Beach, Massachusetts

The geologic framework of the Massachusetts inner continental shelf between Cape Ann and Salisbury Beach has been shaped by a complicated history of glaciation, deglaciation, and changes in relative sea level. New geophysical data (swath bathymetry, sidescan sonar and seismic-reflection profiling), sediment samples, and seafloor photography provide insight into the geomorphic and stratigraphic record generated by these processes. High-resolution spatial data and geologic maps in this report support coastal research and efforts to understand the type, distribution, and quality of subtidal marine habitats in the Massachusetts coastal ocean.

Open-File Report↗
USGS2018

Assessing the impact of open-ocean and back-barrier shoreline change on Dauphin Island, Alabama, at multiple time scales over the last 75 years

Dauphin Island and Little Dauphin Island, collectively, make up a geomorphically complex barrier island system located along Alabama’s southern coast, separating Mississippi Sound from the Gulf of Mexico and Mobile Bay. The barrier island system provides numerous economical (tourism, fisheries) and natural (habitat for migratory birds, natural protection of inland and coastal areas from storms) benefits to the State of Alabama. The complex geomorphology of Dauphin Island is partly a response to temporal variations in the direction and magnitude of sediment transport along and across the barrier island system. In this report, we present open-ocean and back-barrier shoreline change rates at different time scales to evaluate the island’s dominant behavior (expansion or widening and contraction or narrowing) over the last 75 years. The spatial and temporal variability of barrier island width provides baseline and historical context for potential restoration alternatives being considered as part of the Alabama Barrier Island Restoration Feasibility Study. Open-ocean shorelines have eroded continuously over the last 75 years, with rates ranging from 1.5 to 4 meters per year. Back-barrier shorelines are less uniform than open-ocean shorelines, but are, on average, also eroding over the same period. Periods of back-barrier progradation are observed but generally occur during discrete, large altering events like hurricanes that overwash or breach narrow sections of the barrier island. Because both shorelines are eroding, the width of the island has decreased during the last 75 years. The section to the west of a breach that opened during Hurricanes Ivan and Katrina (known as Katrina Cut) exhibits a steady, rapid decrease in width while the section to the east of the breach has gone through periods of expansion and contraction and has only recently begun slowly narrowing. Although the recent trends indicate declining widths, the back-barrier progradation rates in this area were the highest compared to other time periods, which abated extreme narrowing caused by increased open-ocean shoreline erosion. These data and the interpreted results indicate that both short-term (annual) and long-term (decadal) cross-barrier sediment exchange is a key component of sustaining barrier island width. Therefore, any mechanisms that influence this exchange, whether from natural processes (overwash, breaching, or inlet dynamics) or human activities (development, post-storm recovery, restoration), should be considered when evaluating the long-term sustainability of barrier island systems.

Alabama↗
USGS1953

Stratigraphic relationships of Cretaceous and early Tertiary rocks of a part of northwestern San Juan basin

The Bridge Timber Mountain area in south-central La Plata County, southwestern Colorado lies mostly in the northwestern part of the Central San Juan Basin but contains a segment of the bounding Hogback 'monocline' and Four-Corners platform. The area contains rocks of late Cretaceous through early Eocene age, as well as Pliocene, Pleistocene, and Recent terrace and pediment gravels. The Pictured Cliffs sandstone of late Montana age is the latest marine formation present. Retreat of the Cretaceous seas from the area marked the beginning of Laramide orogenic activity and the earliest stages of deformation which produced the modern San Juan Basin. The Fruitland formation and Kirtland shale were deposited in brackish water and on coastal plains left by the retreating Cretaceous sea. Beds of the Farmington sandstone member and upper shale member of the Kirtland shale show evidence of a new source of sediments to the north or northeast distinct from the southwestern source area of older Cretaceous rocks. The McDermott 'formation', composed mainly of volcanic debris, is considered to be a local lower member of the Animas formation. Beds of the upper member of the Animas formation of Cretaceous and Paleocene age are considered to extend entirely across the area and into New Mexico. Overstep of higher sandstone and shale beds of the upper member across lower conglomeratic beds shows that folding on the Hogback 'monocline' began during deposition of the upper member. Beds of the upper member of the Animas formation grade laterally southward into Paleocene beds of the Nacimiento formation, but upper Nacimiento beds overstep folded beds of the Animas formation on the Hogback 'monocline' at the north end of Bridge Timber Mountain. The San Jose formation of Paleocene and Eocene age is conformable with the Nacimiento formation except at the north end of Bridge Timber Mountain where upper San Jose beds overstep all older tilted beds down to the Fruitland formation. The heavy sandstone facies of the Nacimiento and San Jose formations are correlated with similar facies of these formations on the east side of the San Juan Basin. Folding along the borders of the Central basin was completed prior to deposition of the youngest San Joss beds, and they were probably widely distributed outside of the Central Basin in Eocene time. In Pliocene time, the San Juan region was beveled by the San Juan peneplain. Rejuvenation of the San Juan Mountains in late Pliocene time caused erosion in the mountains and deposition of the Bridgetimber gravel in the San Juan Basin. Uplift in Pleistocene time caused large-scale erosion in the Bridge Timber Mountain area and gravel-covered terraces represent the various stages of uplift and erosion. The stratigraphic relationships of uppermost Cretaceous and lower Tertiary rocks in the Bridge Timber Mountain area are similar to recently described relationships of equivalent rocks in other parts of the San Juan Basin. The southwestern lobe of the Pictured Cliffs sandstone was derived from older Cretaceous source areas to the southwest and deposited in the seaway which was retreating northeastward. The northeastern lobe consists of reworked Cretaceous sediments eroded from the flanks of the rising San Juan zone and Sangre de Cristo upwarp and deposited in an arm of the sea which was isolated by uplift of the mountain masses. This arm of the sea was forced to retreat to the southeast as sediments of the Fruitland, Kirtland, Animas, and Ojo Alamo formations were deposited in' the basin. The Animas formation which was derived from hi6hlands to the northeast spread progressively to the southwest and interfingered with lesser amounts of Fruitland and Kirtland sediments derived from the southwest. In latest Cretaceous or earliest Paleocene time folding began along the Hogback 'monocline' in northern and western San Juan Basin and sediments were eroded from the uplifted platforms around the margin of the Central Basin and rede

Open-File Report↗
USGS1997

Accelerated relative sea-level rise and rapid coastal erosion: Testing a causal relationship for the Louisiana barrier islands

The role of relative sea-level rise as a cause for the rapid erosion of Louisiana's barrier island coast is investigated through a numerical implementation of a modified Bruun rule that accounts for the low percentage of sand-sized sediment in the eroding Louisiana shoreface. Shore-normal profiles from 150 km of coastline west of the Mississippi delta are derived from bathymetric surveys conducted during the 1880s. 1930s and 1980s. An RMS difference criterion is employed to test whether an equilibrium profile form is maintained between survey years. Only about half the studied profiles meet the equilibrium Criterion this represents a significant limitation on the potential applicability of the Bruun rule. The profiles meeting the equilibrium criterion, along with measured rates of relative sea-level rise, are used to hindcast shoreline retreat rates at 37 locations within the study area. Modeled and observed shoreline retreat rates show no significant correlation. Thus in terms of the Bruun approach relative sea-level rise has no power for hindcasting (and presumably forecasting) rates of coastal erosion for the Louisiana barrier islands.

Marine Geology↗
USGS2000

Modeling sand bank formation around tidal headlands

Sandbanks are often found in the vicinity of coastal headlands around which tidal flows are strong enough to generate significant tidally-forced residual eddies, typically with scales of 2-10 km. One popular hypothesis is that these sandbanks are generated by a 'tidal stirring' mechanism in which the inward-directed pressure gradient associated with these residual eddies produces an inward-directed movement of sand near the seabed. This hypothesis predicts asymmetric sandbank formation when planetary vorticity is significant compared to the relative vorticity of the residual eddies. This mechanism is tested with a numerical sediment transport model, using idealized symmetrical coastline geometry and tidal forcing that represents conditions similar to regions where these tidal headland sandbanks are known to occur. For both suspended and bedload simulations, we find that nearly symmetric sandbanks form, and that the sediment transport patterns that are responsible for building and maintaining the banks are due more the patterns of shear stress and sediment flux that occur over the course of the tidal cycle rather than to the characteristics of the tidally-averaged residual fields. We also find that sediment supply can be an important factor in controlling the nature of the resulting sandbanks.

Proceedings of the International Conference on Est↗
USGS1992

Miocene intensification of upwelling along the California margin as recorded in siliceous facies of the Monterey Formation and offshore DSDP sites

Diatomaceous sediments and their diagenetic equivalents in the Monterey Formation record a variable history of upwelling along the California margin. Distrinctive dark opal-CT and quartz chertz found in distal basins of the Monterey Formation are the result of burial diagenesis of pure biosiliceous oozes (biosiliceous oozes without significant admixtures of clay) and are therefore evidence of intensified coastal upwelling during the early middle Miocene. Dating of six sections of the Monterey Formation, largely by diatom biostratigraphy, suggests that at the Point Reyes and Point Año Nuevo sections in north-central California, the age of the earliest chert intervals is between 13.8 and 15.0 Ma, and 14.3 and 14.8 Ma, respectively. In south-central California, ages from the Shell Beach, Mussel Rock, and Lions Head sections imply that the age of the base of the chert intervals is between 12.7 and 13.3 Ma. Both ages correlate to an early middle Miocene high latitude cooling step that resulted in more vigorous surface water circulation, upwelling of nutrient-rich waters, and increased biosiliceous sedimentation in the North Pacific. The north-south difference in age of the base of the chert interval probably reflects a progressive intensification of the California Current from 15.0 to 12.7 Ma. The age of the onset of biosiliceous sedimentation at DSDP sites of the northeastern Pacific is also generally younger at the more southern sites; however, these particular DSDP sites were located some distance from the centres of coastal upwelling and are not as reliable indicators of the intensification of upwelling along the California margin.

California↗
USGS2011

Carolinas Coastal Change Processes Project data report for observations near Diamond Shoals, North Carolina, January-May 2009

This Open-File Report provides information collected for an oceanographic field study that occurred during January - May 2009 to investigate processes that control the sediment transport dynamics at Diamond Shoals, North Carolina. The objective of this report is to make the data available in digital form and to provide information to facilitate further analysis of the data. The report describes the background, experimental setup, equipment, and locations of the sensor deployments. The edited data are presented in time-series plots for rapid visualization of the data set, and in data files that are in the Network Common Data Format (netcdf). Supporting observational data are also included.

North Carolina↗
USGS2021

Holocene evolution of sea-surface temperature and salinity in the Gulf of Mexico

Flows into and out of the Gulf of Mexico (GoM) are integral to North Atlantic ocean circulation, and help facilitate poleward heat transport in the Western Hemisphere. The GoM also serves as a key source of moisture for much of North America. Modern patterns of sea-surface temperature (SST) and salinity in the GoM are influenced by the Loop Current, its eddy-shedding dynamics, and the ensuing interplay with coastal processes. Here we present sub-centennial-scale records of SST and stable oxygen isotope composition of seawater ( 18 O sw ; a proxy for salinity) over the past 11,700 years using planktic foraminiferal geochemistry in sediments from the Garrison Basin, northwestern GoM. We measured O and magnesium-to-calcium ratios in tests of Globigerinoides ruber (white) to generate quantitative estimates of past sea-surface conditions. Our results replicate and extend late Holocene reconstructions from the Garrison Basin, using which we then create composites of SST and 18 O sw . We find considerable centennial and millennial-scale variability in both SST and 18 O sw , although their evolution over the Holocene is distinct. Whereas mean-annual SSTs display pronounced millennial-scale variability, 18 O sw exhibits a secular trend spanning multiple millennia and points to increasing northwestern GoM surface salinity since the early Holocene. We then synthesize available Holocene records from across the GoM, and alongside the Garrison Basin composite, uncover substantial, yet regionally consistent, spatiotemporal variability. Finally, we discuss the role of the Loop Current and coastal influx of freshwater in imposing these heterogeneities. We conclude that dynamic surface-ocean changes occurred across the GoM over the Holocene.

Paleoceanography and Paleoclimatology↗
USGS2017

Genetic and grade and tonnage models for sandstone-hosted roll-type uranium deposits, Texas Coastal Plain, USA

The coincidence of a number of geologic and climatic factors combined to create conditions favorable for the development of mineable concentrations of uranium hosted by Eocene through Pliocene sandstones in the Texas Coastal Plain. Here 254 uranium occurrences, including 169 deposits, 73 prospects, 6 showings and 4 anomalies, have been identified. About 80 million pounds of U 3 O 8 have been produced and about 60 million pounds of identified producible U 3 O 8 remain in place. The development of economic roll-type uranium deposits requires a source, large-scale transport of uranium in groundwater, and deposition in reducing zones within a sedimentary sequence. The weight of the evidence supports a source from thick sequences of volcanic ash and volcaniclastic sediment derived mostly from the Trans-Pecos volcanic field and Sierra Madre Occidental that lie west of the region. The thickest accumulations of source material were deposited and preserved south and west of the San Marcos arch in the Catahoula Formation. By the early Oligocene, a formerly uniformly subtropical climate along the Gulf Coast transitioned to a zoned climate in which the southwestern portion of Texas Coastal Plain was dry, and the eastern portion humid. The more arid climate in the southwestern area supported weathering of volcanic ash source rocks during pedogenesis and early diagenesis, concentration of uranium in groundwater and movement through host sediments. During the middle Tertiary Era, abundant clastic sediments were deposited in thick sequences by bed-load dominated fluvial systems in long-lived channel complexes that provided transmissive conduits favoring transport of uranium-rich groundwater. Groundwater transported uranium through permeable sandstones that were hydrologically connected with source rocks, commonly across formation boundaries driven by isostatic loading and eustatic sea level changes. Uranium roll fronts formed as a result of the interaction of uranium-rich groundwater with either (1) organic-rich debris adjacent to large long-lived fluvial channels and barrier–bar sequences or (2) extrinsic reductants entrained in formation water or discrete gas that migrated into host units via faults and along the flanks of salt domes and shale diapirs. The southwestern portion of the region, the Rio Grande embayment, contains all the necessary factors required for roll-type uranium deposits. However, the eastern portion of the region, the Houston embayment, is challenged by a humid environment and a lack of source rock and transmissive units, which may combine to preclude the deposition of economic deposits. A grade and tonnage model for the Texas Coastal Plain shows that the Texas deposits represent a lower tonnage subset of roll-type deposits that occur around the world, and required aggregation of production centers into deposits based on geologic interpretation for the purpose of conducting a quantitative mineral resource assessment.

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USGS1978

Stratigraphic test well, Nantucket Island, Massachusetts

The U.S. Geological Survey, in cooperation with the Massachusetts Water Resources Commission and the Nantucket Conservation Foundation, continuously cored 514 m of sediment and volcanic rock in a stratigraphic and water-quality test near the geographic center of Nantucket Island. Stratified sediments were divided texturally into three zones: the upper zone (0-128 m) contains mostly coarse sand and gravel; the middle zone (128-349 m) contains mostly silty clay and a few beds of sand and silt; and the lower zone (349-457 m) contains soft, unconsolidated, clayey sand. Below the lower zone, a saprolite, composed mostly of clay, grades abruptly downward at 470 m into partially altered basalt that extends to the bottom of the hole at 514 m. Calculations based on the Ghyben-Herzberg principle predicted a zone of freshwater 120-150 m thick. This principle is the theory of hydrostatic equilibrium between freshwater and more dense seawater in a coastal aquifer; it states that for each meter of ground-water elevation above sea level, the freshwater lens will depress the saltwater interface about 40 m below sea level. Freshwater or low-salinity brackish water was found in sediments far below the depth predicted by the Ghyben-Herzberg principle. These interstitial waters are probably relict ground water emplaced during times of low sea level during the Pleistocene. (Woodard-USGS)

Circular↗