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USGS1986

Automated mapping of the ocean floor using the theory of intrinsic random functions of order k

High-quality contour maps can be computer drawn from single track echo-sounding data by combining Universal Kriging and the theory of intrinsic random function of order K (IRFK). These methods interpolate values among the closely spaced points that lie along relatively widely spaced lines. The technique provides a variance which can be contoured as a quantitative measure of map precision. The technique can be used to evaluate alternative survey trackline configurations and data collection intervals, and can be applied to other types of oceanographic data. ?? 1986 D. Reidel Publishing Company.

Marine Geophysical Research↗

USGS2011

Columbia River Estuary ecosystem classification—Concept and application

This document describes the concept, organization, and application of a hierarchical ecosystem classification that integrates saline and tidal freshwater reaches of estuaries in order to characterize the ecosystems of large flood plain rivers that are strongly influenced by riverine and estuarine hydrology. We illustrate the classification by applying it to the Columbia River estuary (Oregon-Washington, USA), a system that extends about 233 river kilometers (rkm) inland from the Pacific Ocean. More than three-quarters of this length is tidal freshwater. The Columbia River Estuary Ecosystem Classification ("Classification") is based on six hierarchical levels, progressing from the coarsest, regional scale to the finest, localized scale: (1) Ecosystem Province; (2) Ecoregion; (3) Hydrogeomorphic Reach; (4) Ecosystem Complex; (5) Geomorphic Catena; and (6) Primary Cover Class. We define and map Levels 1-3 for the entire Columbia River estuary with existing geospatial datasets, and provide examples of Levels 4-6 for one hydrogeomorphic reach. In particular, three levels of the Classification capture the scales and categories of ecosystem structure and processes that are most tractable to estuarine research, monitoring, and management. These three levels are the (1) eight hydrogeomorphic reaches that embody the formative geologic and tectonic processes that created the existing estuarine landscape and encompass the influence of the resulting physiography on interactions between fluvial and tidal hydrology and geomorphology across 230 kilometers (km) of estuary, (2) more than 15 ecosystem complexes composed of broad landforms created predominantly by geologic processes during the Holocene, and (3) more than 25 geomorphic catenae embedded within ecosystem complexes that represent distinct geomorphic landforms, structures, ecosystems, and habitats, and components of the estuarine landscape most likely to change over short time periods.

Columbia River Estuary↗

USGS2007

Law of the sea, the continental shelf, and marine research

The question of the amount of seabed to which a coastal nation is entitled is addressed in the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea (UNCLOS). This treaty, ratified by 153 nations and in force since 1994, specifies national obligations, rights, and jurisdiction in the oceans, and it allows nations a continental shelf out to at least 200 nautical miles or to a maritime boundary. Article 76 (A76) of the convention enables coastal nations to establish their continental shelves beyond 200 nautical miles and therefore to control, among other things, access for scientific research and the use of seabed resources that would otherwise be considered to lie beyond national jurisdiction. To date, seven submissions for extended continental shelves (ECS) have been filed under UNCLOS (Table 1). These submissions have begun to define the ambiguities in A76. How these ambiguities are resolved into final ECS boundaries will probably set important precedents guiding the future delimitation of the ECS by the United States, which has not ratified the convention, and other coastal nations. This report uses examples from the first three submissions—by the Russian Federation, Brazil, and Australia—to identify outstanding issues encountered in applying A76 to ECS delimitation.

Eos, Transactions, American Geophysical Union↗

USGS2009

Littoral transport rates in the Santa Barbara Littoral Cell: a process-based model analysis

Identification of the sediment transport patterns and pathways is essential for sustainable coastal zone management of the heavily modified coastline of Santa Barbara and Ventura County (California, USA). A process-based model application, based on Delft3D Online Morphology, is used to investigate the littoral transport potential along the Santa Barbara Littoral Cell (between Point Conception and Mugu Canyon). An advanced optimalization procedure is applied to enable annual sediment transport computations by reducing the ocean wave climate in 10 wave height - direction classes. Modeled littoral transport rates compare well with observed dredging volumes, and erosion or sedimentation hotspots coincide with the modeled divergence and convergence of the transport gradients. Sediment transport rates are strongly dependent on the alongshore variation in wave height due to wave sheltering, diffraction and focusing by the Northern Channel Islands, and the local orientation of the geologically-controlled coastline. Local transport gradients exceed the net eastward littoral transport, and are considered a primary driver for hot-spot erosion.

California↗

USGS2024

Snake River Fall Chinook Salmon research and monitoring

In Chapter 1, we report on development and application of an integrated population model (IPM) for the natural-origin fall Chinook salmon population upstream of Lower Granite Dam. This year’s efforts represent the third update to the model. Initial efforts focused on generating juvenile and adult abundance estimates, with estimates of uncertainty, for informing the life-cycle model and estimating the effects of covariates on key demographic parameters. The goals of this year’s report are to 1) describe the modifications and advances made since the previous report, 2) to annually update and report the abundance estimates and other quantities used in the model, 3) to provide annual estimates of population parameters estimated by the IPM, and 4) to outline the next year’s tasks for advancing and/or applying the model. Since our last report on the life-cycle model, we have made a number of changes including: 1) incorporating jack abundance and age-structure data into the observation model, 2) changing smolt-to-adult survival (SAR) for subyearling and yearling to partial SARs that represent the joint probability surviving and entering the ocean at a given juvenile age, 3) combining age categories for rarely observed ages, 4) using scale data from unmarked fish to estimate age structure, and 5) generating composite life-cycle demographic parameters (cumulative capacity and productivity) from stage-specific parameters. We also generated juvenile abundance estimates, extended the model to include three additional brood years (1992– 2021), and ran the model to forecast returns to Lower Granite in 2022. For posterior medians of life stage-specific parameters, we estimated a mean productivity of 438 natural-origin juvenile recruits per female spawner, a capacity of 1.36 million juveniles, and a mean smolt-to-adult survival (SAR) of 1.2%. We detected strong density-dependent regulation, with juvenile recruits per spawner declining to about 50 juvenile recruits per female spawner at high spawner abundance. Across the entire life cycle, these stage-specific parameters resulted in a median cumulative intrinsic productivity of 1.93 adult female recruits per female spawner and a median equilibrium abundance of 2,851 female spawners (7,842 total spawners). Annual juvenile productivity varied from about 250–1,000 juveniles per spawner but displayed no temporal trends or patterns. For the three most recent brood years added to the model, recruits per spawner were higher than average but well within the range of uncertainty observed over the entire time series. In contrast to juvenile recruitment variability, SAR varied considerably among years and exhibited two periods of high survival (1996–2001 and 2007–2012) when SAR ranged from 2% to 6% and cumulative productivity ranged from 2 to 8 recruits per spawner. Partial SARs revealed that yearling outmigrants contributed substantially to the high SARs in the first high-survival period, but the second period was dominated by subyearlings. Yearlings contributed >30% to SAR in most years prior to 2007, and <30% since 2007. Our two-stage IPM provides a wealth of information about population dynamics affecting two key life-stage transitions (spawner to juvenile, and juvenile to spawner) centered on passage at Lower Granite Dam. By summarizing these stage-specific demographic parameters across the entire life cycle, this information will be useful for informing the recovery status of this threatened population. Whereas previous versions introduced hydrosystem and ocean covariates into the model, this phase of model development focused on solidifying the underlying model structure by introducing the concept of partial SARs and developing composite productivity and capacity as a function of underlying stage-specific parameters. Given this advancement, our next steps are to re-incorporate covariates into the model, specifically to understand how different factors affect partial SARs of subyearling and yearlings. Longer term model developments include:1) incorporating hatchery fish to explicitly estimate their survival as an alternative method for estimating natural-origin age composition, 2) expanding the model’s structure to include the three major spawning aggregates, 3) more explicitly modeling hydrosystem effects including transportation, and 4) using the model to assess retrospective and prospective management actions. In 2022, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) focused adult salmon survey efforts in the Snake River on deepwater redd searches and fish collection for parentage-based tagging (PBT) analyses. We use used a boat-mounted underwater video camera to count 99 deepwater redds at 16 of the 29 sites surveyed. Redd depths averaged 4.4 m. In conjunction with the Idaho Power Company, we collected genetic samples from 318 live fall Chinook salmon (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha) and 19 carcasses at 40 unique geographic locations that spanned 91 river kilometers. Eighty fish were collected at three sites (High Range [rkm 332.3], Dug Bar [rkm 315.4], and Three Creek [rkm 384.0]), which accounted for 23% of all collected fish in 2022. Most (333 fish) post-spawned salmon were collected from early to mid-November just after the peak of spawning. A summary of 2021 PBT results produced by the Idaho Power Company can be found in Appendix A.2. Beach seining and PIT tagging of subyearling fall Chinook salmon was conducted in Snake and Salmon rivers to obtain information on population metrics and growth as well as to provide data for ongoing life-cycle modeling. In the Snake River, we collected 7,496 subyearlings, tagged 4,139, and recaptured 502 (12.1%). Using 8-mm tags in 45–49-mm fish allowed us to represent an additional 25% of the juvenile population through PIT tagging beyond just using standard 9- and 12-mm tags. In the Salmon River, we captured 206 natural subyearlings with the majority (52%) of fish being captured at two sites: rkm 20 and 26. We tagged 145 subyearlings and recaptured 9 fish. Many of the subyearlings we tagged in the Snake River were detected passing Lower Granite Dam, but only 4 fish tagged in the Salmon River were detected. In total we detected 484 (11.3%) tagged fish at Lower Granite Dam, and detection rates varied by tag size and passage route. More subyearlings were detected passing via the removable spill weir (RSW) earlier in the season while more fish were detected passing through the juvenile fish bypass system (JBS) earlier in the season while more fish were detected passing via the removable spill weir (RSW) later in the season. In general, fish tagged with 12-mm PIT tags had higher detection rates than fish tagged with smaller tags. Survival to Lower Granite Dam was low and ranged from 0.22 to 0.36. Season-wide, growth of subyearlings was higher in the lower reach than in the upper reach of the Snake River.

Idaho, Oregon, Washington↗

USGS2012

Tectonic stresses in the lithosphere: constraints provided by the experimental deformation of rocks.

The strengths of rocks clearly place an upper limit on the stress that can be sustained by the upper half of the lithosphere. Laboratory data on rock rheology are generally lacking at intermediate temperatures and pressures on the important rock types expected in the lithosphere, so a definitive accounting of the strength distribution with depth in the upper lithosphere is presently unattainable. Analogies are drawn between the fragmentary strength data on silicates at intermediate temperature and the more extensive experimental data on marble and limestone, and several tentative conclusions are drawn: First, brittle processes, such as faulting and cataclasis, are expected to control rock strength at low pressures and temperatures. The strengths associated with these brittle mechanisms increase rapidly with increasing effective pressure and are relatively insensitive to temperature and strain rate. Second, the transitions between brittle and ductile processes occur at critical values of the least principal stress σ 3 . I suggest that the concept of the deformation mechanism map of Ashby (1972) be extended to brittle-ductile transitions by normalizing the applied differential stress σ by σ 3 , i.e., the transitions occur at critical values of σ/σ 3 . Third, the high temperature flow law of olivine, widely applied to problems involving flow in the asthenosphere, is inappropriate to the conditions of temperature found in the lithosphere, because different dislocation flow mechanisms dominate at low to intermediate temperatures. The fragmentary rheological data suggest the following rheological structure of the lithosphere where it is inelastically deforming: A rapid pressure-driven increase in rock strength with depth culminates with a shear strength maximum of up to 8 kbar at depths that depend on the state of stress and on the temperature distribution. A review of the mechanisms of weakening associated with water suggests that water weakening effects are probably not important in the oceanic lithosphere but are likely to be controlling in the continental crust.

Journal of Geophysical Research Solid Earth↗

USGS2020

Ecological forecasting—21st century science for 21st century management

Natural resource managers are coping with rapid changes in both environmental conditions and ecosystems. Enabled by recent advances in data collection and assimilation, short-term ecological forecasting may be a powerful tool to help resource managers anticipate impending near-term changes in ecosystem conditions or dynamics. Managers may use the information in forecasts to minimize the adverse effects of ecological stressors and optimize the effectiveness of management actions. To explore the potential for ecological forecasting to enhance natural resource management, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) convened a workshop titled "Building Capacity for Applied Short-Term Ecological Forecasting" on May 29—31, 2019, with participants from several Federal agencies, including the Bureau of Land Management, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the National Park Service, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration as well as all mission areas within the USGS. Participants broadly agreed that short-term ecological forecasting—on the order of days to years into the future—has tremendous potential to improve the quality and timeliness of information available to guide resource management decisions. Participants considered how ecological forecasting could directly affect their agency missions and specified numerous critical tools for addressing natural resource management concerns in the 21st century that could be enhanced by ecological forecasting. Given this breadth of possible applications for forecast products, participants developed a repeatable framework for evaluating potential value of a forecast product for enhancing resource management. Applying that process to a large list of forecast ideas that were developed in a brainstorming session, participants identified a small set of promising forecast products that illustrate the value of ecological forecasting for informing resource management. Workshop outcomes also include insights about important likely obstacles and next steps. In particular, reliable production and delivery of operational ecological forecasts will require a sustained commitment by research agencies, in partnership with resource management agencies, to maintain and improve forecasting tools and capabilities.

Open-File Report↗

USGS2011

Compilation of watershed models for tributaries to the Great Lakes, United States, as of 2010, and identification of watersheds for future modeling for the Great Lakes Restoration Initiative

As part of the Great Lakes Restoration Initiative (GLRI) during 2009–10, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) compiled a list of existing watershed models that had been created for tributaries within the United States that drain to the Great Lakes. Established Federal programs that are overseen by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) are responsible for most of the existing watershed models for specific tributaries. The NOAA Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory (GLERL) uses the Large Basin Runoff Model to provide data for the management of water levels in the Great Lakes by estimating United States and Canadian inflows to the Great Lakes from 121 large watersheds. GLERL also simulates streamflows in 34 U.S. watersheds by a grid-based model, the Distributed Large Basin Runoff Model. The NOAA National Weather Service uses the Sacramento Soil Moisture Accounting model to predict flows at river forecast sites. The USACE created or funded the creation of models for at least 30 tributaries to the Great Lakes to better understand sediment erosion, transport, and aggradation processes that affect Federal navigation channels and harbors. Many of the USACE hydrologic models have been coupled with hydrodynamic and sediment-transport models that simulate the processes in the stream and harbor near the mouth of the modeled tributary. Some models either have been applied or have the capability of being applied across the entire Great Lakes Basin; they are (1) the SPAtially Referenced Regressions On Watershed attributes (SPARROW) model, which was developed by the USGS; (2) the High Impact Targeting (HIT) and Digital Watershed models, which were developed by the Institute of Water Research at Michigan State University; (3) the Long-Term Hydrologic Impact Assessment (L–THIA) model, which was developed by researchers at Purdue University; and (4) the Water Erosion Prediction Project (WEPP) model, which was developed by the National Soil Erosion Research Laboratory of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. During 2010, the USGS used the Precipitation-Runoff Modeling System (PRMS) to create a hydrologic model for the Lake Michigan Basin to assess the probable effects of climate change on future groundwater and surface-water resources. The Water Availability Tool for Environmental Resources (WATER) model and the Analysis of Flows In Networks of CHannels (AFINCH) program also were used to support USGS GLRI projects that required estimates of streamflows throughout the Great Lakes Basin. This information on existing watershed models, along with an assessment of geologic, soils, and land-use data across the Great Lakes Basin and the identification of problems that exist in selected tributary watersheds that could be addressed by a watershed model, was used to identify three watersheds in the Great Lakes Basin for future modeling by the USGS. These watersheds are the Kalamazoo River Basin in Michigan, the Tonawanda Creek Basin in New York, and the Bad River Basin in Wisconsin. These candidate watersheds have hydrogeologic, land-type, and soil characteristics that make them distinct from each other, but that are representative of other tributary watersheds within the Great Lakes Basin. These similarities in the characteristics among nearby watersheds will enhance the usefulness of a model by improving the likelihood that parameter values from a previously modeled watershed could reliably be used in the creation of a model of another watershed in the same region. The software program Hydrological Simulation Program–Fortran (HSPF) was selected to simulate the hydrologic, sedimentary, and water-quality processes in these selected watersheds. HSPF is a versatile, process-based, continuous-simulation model that has been used extensively by the scientific community, has the ongoing technical support of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and USGS, and provides a means to evaluate the effects that land-use changes or management practices might have on the simulated processes.

Great Lakes Basin↗

USGS2011

Wave-current interaction in Willapa Bay

This paper describes the importance of wave-current interaction in an inlet-estuary system. The three-dimensional, fully coupled, Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system was applied in Willapa Bay (Washington State) from 22 to 29 October 1998 that included a large storm event. To represent the interaction between waves and currents, the vortex-force method was used. Model results were compared with water elevations, currents, and wave measurements obtained by the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers. In general, a good agreement between field data and computed results was achieved, although some discrepancies were also observed in regard to wave peak directions in the most upstream station. Several numerical experiments that considered different forcing terms were run in order to identify the effects of each wind, tide, and wave-current interaction process. Comparison of the horizontal momentum balances results identified that wave-breaking-induced acceleration is one of the leading terms in the inlet area. The enhancement of the apparent bed roughness caused by waves also affected the values and distribution of the bottom shear stress. The pressure gradient showed significant changes with respect to the pure tidal case. During storm conditions the momentum balance in the inlet shares the characteristics of tidal-dominated and wave-dominated surf zone environments. The changes in the momentum balance caused by waves were manifested both in water level and current variations. The most relevant effect on hydrodynamics was a wave-induced setup in the inner part of the estuary.

Washington↗

USGS2012

Implications of regional gravity for state of stress in the earth's crust and upper mantle

Topography is maintained by stress differences within the earth. Depending on the distribution of the stress we classify the support as either local or regional compensation. In general, the stresses implied in a regional compensation scheme are an order of magnitude larger than those corresponding to local isostasy. Gravity anomalies, a measure of the earth's departure from hydrostatic equilibrium, can be used to distinguish between the two compensation mechanisms and thus to estimate the magnitude of deviatoric stress in the crust and upper mantle. Topography created at an oceanic ridge crest or in a major continental orogenic zone appears to be locally compensated. Such features were formed on weak crust incapable of maintaining stress differences much greater than the stress from the applied load. Oceanic volcanoes formed on an already cooled, thickened lithosphere are regionally supported with elastic stresses. Similarly, the broad topographic rise seaward of subduction zones is elastically supported as the lithosphere is bent near the plate margin. Although the implied stress is to some degree dependent on the rheological model assumed, the gravity anomalies and surface deformation produced by these features demonstrate that the upper 30–40 km of the oceanic lithosphere is capable of regionally supporting stress differences in the 100-MPa range. Given certain conditions of load emplacement, continental crust can also support loads regionally over 100-m.y. time scales, but the effects of erosion only allow an estimate of a lower bound on stress. Data from space probes indicate that the upper layers of other terrestrial planets also support topographic-induced stress differences in excess of 100 MPa.

Journal of Geophysical Research Solid Earth↗

USGS2005

Seismic precursory patterns before a cliff collapse and critical point phenomena

We analyse the statistical pattern of seismicity before a 1-2 103 m3 chalk cliff collapse on the Normandie ocean shore, Western France. We show that a power law acceleration of seismicity rate and energy in both 40 Hz-1.5 kHz and 2 Hz-10kHz frequency range, is defined on 3 orders of magnitude, within 2 hours from the collapse time. Simultaneously, the average size of the seismic events increases toward the time to failure. These in situ results are derived from the only station located within one rupture length distance from the rock fall rupture plane. They mimic the "critical point" like behavior recovered from physical and numerical experiments before brittle failures and tertiary creep failures. Our analysis of this first seismic monitoring data of a cliff collapse suggests that the thermodynamic phase transition models for failure may apply for cliff collapse. Copyright 2005 by the American Geophysical Union.

Geophysical Research Letters↗

USGS1986

Improved method for correlating late Pleistocene/Holocene records from the Bering Sea: Application of a biosiliceous/geochemical stratigraphy

The combination of high-resolution siliceous biostratigraphy and radiocarbon dating provides a mechanism for detailed assessment of the depositional history in late Pleistocene sediments from the Bering Sea where average accumulation rates are uncharacteristically high compared to rates calculated for most other ocean basins. Vital to the development of this stratigraphy was the recognition that the abundance pattern of the radiolarian species Cycladophora davisiana in Bering Sea cores is quite similar to this species' previously correlated abundance curve in a late Pleistocene/Holocene record from the northwest Pacific. Comparison of this high-resolution stratigraphy with other recently developed floral and lithologic stratigraphies for late Pleistocene Bering Sea sediments shows that the various stratigraphies do not always yield identical results when applied to a particular sediment sequence. With this new stratigraphy based upon a combination of siliceous microfaunal abundance patterns and radiocarbon dating, one can identify reworking, discontinuities and other interruptions in the depositional sequence more precisely than with previously devised stratigraphies, thereby improving the correlation techniques for comparison of late Pleistocene/Holocene records from this marginal sea.

Deep Sea Research Part A, Oceanographic Research P↗

USGS2023

Tree-ring derived avalanche frequency and climate associations in a high-latitude, maritime climate

Snow avalanches are a natural hazard in mountainous areas worldwide with severe impacts that include fatalities, damage to infrastructure, disruption to commerce, and landscape disturbance. Understanding long-term avalanche frequency patterns, and associated climate and weather influences, improves our understanding of how climate change may affect avalanche activity. We used dendrochronological techniques to evaluate the historical frequency of large magnitude avalanches (LMAs) in the high-latitude climate of southeast Alaska, United States. We collected 434 cross sections throughout six avalanche paths near Juneau, Alaska. This resulted in 2706 identified avalanche growth disturbances between 1720 and 2018, which allowed us to reconstruct 82 years with LMA activity across three sub-regions. By combining this tree-ring-derived avalanche data set with a suite of climate and atmospheric variables and applying a generalized linear model to fit a binomial regression, we found that February and March precipitation and the Oceanic Niño Index (ONI) were significant predictors of LMA activity in the study area. Specifically, LMA activity occurred during winters with substantial February and March precipitation and neutral or negative (cold) ONI values, while years not characterized by LMAs occur more frequently during warm winters (positive ONI values). Our examination of the climate-avalanche relationship in southeast Alaska sheds light on important climate variables and physical processes associated with LMA years. These results can be used to inform long-term infrastructure planning and avalanche mitigation operations in an urban area, such as Juneau, where critical infrastructure is subject to substantial avalanche hazard.

Alaska↗

USGS2017

Controls of multi-modal wave conditions in a complex coastal setting

Coastal hazards emerge from the combined effect of wave conditions and sea level anomalies associated with storms or low-frequency atmosphere-ocean oscillations. Rigorous characterization of wave climate is limited by the availability of spectral wave observations, the computational cost of dynamical simulations, and the ability to link wave-generating atmospheric patterns with coastal conditions. We present a hybrid statistical-dynamical approach to simulating nearshore wave climate in complex coastal settings, demonstrated in the Southern California Bight, where waves arriving from distant, disparate locations are refracted over complex bathymetry and shadowed by offshore islands. Contributions of wave families and large-scale atmospheric drivers to nearshore wave energy flux are analyzed. Results highlight the variability of influences controlling wave conditions along neighboring coastlines. The universal method demonstrated here can be applied to complex coastal settings worldwide, facilitating analysis of the effects of climate change on nearshore wave climate.

California↗

USGS2016

DNA and dispersal models highlight constrained connectivity in a migratory marine megavertebrate

Population structure and spatial distribution are fundamentally important fields within ecology, evolution, and conservation biology. To investigate pan-Atlantic connectivity of globally endangered green turtles ( Chelonia mydas ) from two National Parks in Florida, USA, we applied a multidisciplinary approach comparing genetic analysis and ocean circulation modeling. The Everglades (EP) is a juvenile feeding ground, whereas the Dry Tortugas (DT) is used for courtship, breeding, and feeding by adults and juveniles. We sequenced two mitochondrial segments from 138 turtles sampled there from 2006-2015, and simulated oceanic transport to estimate their origins. Genetic and ocean connectivity data revealed northwestern Atlantic rookeries as the major natal sources, while southern and eastern Atlantic contributions were negligible. However, specific rookery estimates differed between genetic and ocean transport models. The combined analyses suggest that post-hatchling drift via ocean currents poorly explains the distribution of neritic juveniles and adults, but juvenile natal homing and population history likely play important roles. DT and EP were genetically similar to feeding grounds along the southern US coast, but highly differentiated from most other Atlantic groups. Despite expanded mitogenomic analysis and correspondingly increased ability to detect genetic variation, no significant differentiation between DT and EP, or among years, sexes or stages was observed. This first genetic analysis of a North Atlantic green turtle courtship area provides rare data supporting local movements and male philopatry. The study highlights the applications of multidisciplinary approaches for ecological research and conservation.

Florida↗

USGS2024

Hurricane wave energy dissipation and wave-driven currents over a fringing reef

In 2018, two successive tropical cyclones, Hurricane Hector and Hurricane Lane, generated waves that impacted the Hawaiian Islands. This study investigates wave breaking over a broad fringing reef and aims to quantify the magnitudes and length scales of the corresponding wave-driven circulation using detailed field observations and numerical models corresponding to these wave events. Detailed wave and current measurements were collected across a 1200-m wide cross-reef transect off the coral reef-lined south coast of Moloka’i, Hawai’i. High-resolution numerical model grids were developed to resolve reef features and the coupled Delft3D-SWAN modeling system was applied to simulate spectral wave transformation and wave-driven currents for these two energetic ocean wave events generated by distant passing hurricanes. The results indicate that the wave-driven circulation is generally weak, with current speeds typically less than 0.15 m/s for the wave conditions generated by Hurricane Lane, with significant wave heights up to 1.9 m. Higher energy dissipation rates from larger waves up to 2.5 m breaking during Hurricane Hector resulted in stronger observed currents up to approximately 0.3 m/s. However, the model results show that these currents are confined to the wave-breaking region over the upper fore reef in a narrow (100–300 m) region near the reef crest, and weaker flows of less than 0.1 m/s are generated over the shallow and wide reef flat. Wave heights across the reef flat are less than 0.5 m and are controlled by the tidal water levels. The coral reef structures therefore provide significant protection for the coastline even during large wave and variable sea level conditions. Climate change is likely to increase sea level and storm intensity, the combination of which will influence wave transmission over fringing reefs that may degrade habitat, fueling the need for further research on changing conditions on coral reef-lined coasts.

Hawaii↗

USGS2008

Application of Wind Fetch and Wave Models for Habitat Rehabilitation and Enhancement Projects

Models based upon coastal engineering equations have been developed to quantify wind fetch length and several physical wave characteristics including significant height, length, peak period, maximum orbital velocity, and shear stress. These models, developed using Environmental Systems Research Institute's ArcGIS 9.2 Geographic Information System platform, were used to quantify differences in proposed island construction designs for three Habitat Rehabilitation and Enhancement Projects (HREPs) in the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers St. Paul District (Capoli Slough and Harpers Slough) and St. Louis District (Swan Lake). Weighted wind fetch was calculated using land cover data supplied by the Long Term Resource Monitoring Program (LTRMP) for each island design scenario for all three HREPs. Figures and graphs were created to depict the results of this analysis. The difference in weighted wind fetch from existing conditions to each potential future island design was calculated for Capoli and Harpers Slough HREPs. A simplistic method for calculating sediment suspension probability was also applied to the HREPs in the St. Paul District. This analysis involved determining the percentage of days that maximum orbital wave velocity calculated over the growing seasons of 2002-2007 exceeded a threshold value taken from the literature where fine unconsolidated sediments may become suspended. This analysis also evaluated the difference in sediment suspension probability from existing conditions to the potential island designs. Bathymetric data used in the analysis were collected from the LTRMP and wind direction and magnitude data were collected from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, National Climatic Data Center.

Open-File Report↗

USGS2005

Estimating hydrodynamic roughness in a wave-dominated environment with a high-resolution acoustic Doppler profiler

Hydrodynamic roughness is a critical parameter for characterizing bottom drag in boundary layers, and it varies both spatially and temporally due to variation in grain size, bedforms, and saltating sediment. In this paper we investigate temporal variability in hydrodynamic roughness using velocity profiles in the bottom boundary layer measured with a high-resolution acoustic Doppler profiler (PCADP). The data were collected on the ebb-tidal delta off Grays Harbor, Washington, in a mean water depth of 9 m. Significant wave height ranged from 0.5 to 3 m. Bottom roughness has rarely been determined from hydrodynamic measurements under conditions such as these, where energetic waves and medium-to-fine sand produce small bedforms. Friction velocity due to current u*c and apparent bottom roughness z0a were determined from the PCADP burst mean velocity profiles using the law of the wall. Bottom roughness kB was estimated by applying the Grant-Madsen model for wave-current interaction iteratively until the model u*c converged with values determined from the data. The resulting kB values ranged over 3 orders of magnitude (10-1 to 10-4 m) and varied inversely with wave orbital diameter. This range of kB influences predicted bottom shear stress considerably, suggesting that the use of time-varying bottom roughness could significantly improve the accuracy of sediment transport models. Bedform height was estimated from kB and is consistent with both ripple heights predicted by empirical models and bedforms in sonar images collected during the experiment. Copyright 2005 by the American Geophysical Union.

Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans↗