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Monitoring beach changes using GPS surveying techniques

A need exists for frequent and prompt updating of shoreline positions, rates of shoreline movement, and volumetric nearshore changes. To effectively monitor and predict these beach changes, accurate measurements of beach morphology incorporating both shore-parallel and shore-normal transects are required. Although it is possible to monitor beach dynamics using land-based surveying methods, it is generally not practical to collect data of sufficient density and resolution to satisfy a three-dimensional beach-change model of long segments of the coast. The challenge to coastal scientists is to devise new beach monitoring methods that address these needs and are rapid, reliable, relatively inexpensive, and maintain or improve measurement accuracy. The adaptation of Global Positioning System (GPS) surveying techniques to beach monitoring activities is a promising response to this challenge. An experiment that employed both GPS and conventional beach surveying was conducted, and a new beach monitoring method employing kinematic GPS surveys was devised. This new method involves the collection of precise shore-parallel and shore-normal GPS positions from a moving vehicle so that an accurate two-dimensional beach surface can be generated. Results show that the GPS measurements agree with conventional shore-normal surveys at the 1 cm level, and repeated GPS measurements employing the moving vehicle demonstrate a precision of better than 1 cm. In addition, the nearly continuous sampling and increased resolution provided by the GPS surveying technique reveals alongshore changes in beach morphology that are undetected by conventional shore-normal profiles. The application of GPS surveying techniques combined with the refinement of appropriate methods for data collection and analysis provides a better understanding of beach changes, sediment transport, and storm impacts.

Journal of Coastal Research

Climate change-driven cliff and beach evolution at decadal to centennial time scales

Here we develop a computationally efficient method that evolves cross-shore profiles of sand beaches with or without cliffs along natural and urban coastal environments and across expansive geographic areas at decadal to centennial time-scales driven by 21st century climate change projections. The model requires projected sea level rise rates, extrema of nearshore wave conditions, bluff recession and shoreline change rates, and cross-shore profiles representing present-day conditions. The model is applied to the ~470-km long coast of the Southern California Bight, USA, using recently available projected nearshore waves and bluff recession and shoreline change rates. The results indicate that eroded cliff material, from unarmored cliffs, contribute 11% to 26% to the total sediment budget. Historical beach nourishment rates will need to increase by more than 30% for a 0.25 m sea level rise (~2044) and by at least 75% by the year 2100 for a 1 m sea level rise, if evolution of the shoreline is to keep pace with rising sea levels.

Conference Paper

Geology and coastal hazards in the northern Monterey Bay, California: Field trip guidebook, November 4, 2000

The purpose of this field trip is to explore the relationships between local geology, coastal hazards, and human influences in the northern Monterey Bay, which is a tectonically active high wave energy coastal environment. Seacliffs, shore platforms, pocket beaches and a headland/embayment morphology characterize this rocky coastline. Many studies of the onshore and offshore geology and geophysics, the local wave climate, and the effects of large storm events and earthquakes on the coastline have been conducted in this region (see Related Reading section). This field trip summarizes many of the findings of these research investigations, and also considers the relationship between the rates and styles of seacliff erosion and the variations in the local geology. The field trip stops allow the participant to examine seacliff sites of different geological lithologies, geographic orientations, and varying protection from wave attack, and consider how these variables affect not only the rate or magnitude of seacliff retreat but also the styles of retreat. In general the two primary forcing factors in the retreat of seacliffs are marine and terrestrial processes. At the various field trip stops, the relative importance of these processes in shaping the coastline at that particular location will be explored. Where beaches have developed, whether naturally or by emplacement of man-made structures, field trip stops are designed to look at the occurrence of the beaches (why they exist where they do) and to understand the response of the beaches to large storm events. Finally, this trip focuses on the various coastline protection structures that have been built in the area, and their effectiveness in protecting development on the beaches or at the tops of the seacliffs. The first stop of the trip is the Long Marine Lab facility where the seacliffs are composed of the most resistant geological unit in the area, the Miocene Santa Cruz Mudstone. This stop also includes discussion of some of the interesting geological features associated with this part of the Bay, including the arches at Natural Bridges State Beach. The field trip stops are progressively east and south, moving into the inner Monterey Bay, as well as into the less resistant lithologies of the late Miocene to Pliocene Purisima Formation, and finally the Pleistocene Aromas Sand. The route will follow the coast wherever possible so participants can get a full perspective of the northern Monterey Bay coastline, even where stops have not been planned.

California

Ground-water resources data for Baldwin County, Alabama

Geologic and hydrologic data for 237 wells were collected, and water-levels in 223 wells in Baldwin and Escambia Counties were measured. Long-term water water-level data, available for many wells, indicate that ground-water levels in most of Baldwin County show no significant trends for the period of record. However, ground-water levels have declined in the general vicinity of Spanish Fort and Daphne, and ground-water levels in the Gulf Shores and Orange Beach areas are less than 5 feet above sea level in places. The quality of ground water generally is good, but problems with iron, sulfur, turbidity, and color occur. The water from most private wells in Baldwin County is used without treatment or filtration. Alabama public- health law requires that water from public-supply wells be chlorinated. Beyond that, the most common treatment of ground water by public-water suppliers in Baldwin County consists of pH adjustment, iron removal, and aeration. The transmissivity of the Miocene-Pliocene aquifer was determined at 10 locations in Baldwin County. Estimates of transmissivity ranged from 700 to 5,400 feet squared per day. In general, aquifer transmissivity was greatest in the southeastern part of the county, and least in the western part of the county near Mobile Bay. A storage coefficient of 1.5 x 10-3 was determined for the Miocene-Pliocene aquifer near Loxley.

Open-File Report

Interactions between ground water and wetlands, southern shore of Lake Michigan, USA

Wetlands between, and within, dune-beach complexes along the south shore of Lake Michigan are strongly affected by ground water. The hydrogeology of the glacial drift aquifer system in a 26 km 2 area was investigated to determine the effects of ground water on the hydrology and hydrochemistry of Cowles Bog and its adjacent wetlands. The investigation showed that ground water from intermediate- and regional-scale flow systems discharges to Cowles Bog from confined aquifers that underlie the wetland. These flow systems are recharged in moraines south of the dune-beach complexes. Water from the confined aquifers discharges into the surficial aquifer mainly by upward leakage through a buried till sheet that serves as the confining layer. However, the till sheet is breached below a raised peat mound in Cowles Bog, allowing direct upward discharge from the confinef aquifer into the surficial sand, marl, and peat. The shallow ground and wetland water in the area influenced by this leakage is a calcium magnesium bicarbonate type, with low tritium concentrations consistent with mixing of older ground water and more recent precipitation. Ground water and wetland water from surrounding areas are less mineralized and have higher tritium concentrations characteristic of precipitation in the late 1970s. The results of this study suggest that wetlands in complex hydrogeologic settings may be influenced by multiple ground-water flow systems that are affected by geomorphic features, stratigraphic discontinuities, and changes in sediment types. Discharge and recharge zones may both occur in the same wetland. Multidisciplinary studies incorporating hydrological, hydrochemical, geophysical, and sedimentological data are necessary to identify such complexities in wetland hydrology.

Journal of Hydrology

Beach and reef-flat sediments along the south shore of Molokai, Hawaii

As part of the U.S. Geological Survey's multi-disciplinary Coral Reef Project addressing the health and geological variability of coral reef systems, sediment components and their distribution along the fringing reef on the south shore of the Hawaiian island of Molokai are being examined. Particular interest is being paid to the types and origin of sediment found on the reef. The south shore of Molokai is sheltered by one of the largest fringing reefs in the US. At approximately 50 km in length, up to 1.5 km in width, and covered by 90% live coral in many locations, the reef seemingly should be able to provide ample sediment for large carbonate beaches. However, siliciclastic grains supplied by erosion of the basaltic uplands of Molokai are often the most conspicuous individual nearshore sediment type. Coralline algae and coral are the most common carbonate components of the beaches. On the nearshore reef-flat, chemically-altered carbonate grains, particularly coralline algae, are the most abundant component. Molluscs and Halimeda may be common in specific locations, but are usually minor components. Sediment calcium carbonate levels increase to the west from a minimum at Kamalo, and are high along the east shore of Molokai. However, these general island-scale trends may be overridden by local influences, such as protected stream mouths or high carbonate growth rates. Additionally, trends seen on the beach and nearshore environments may not reflect trends a few hundred meters offshore since shore normal trends are more pronounced than shore parallel ones.

Conference Paper

Beach-ridge development and lake-level variation in southern Lake Michigan

The most accurate source of information on lake-level fluctuations in the Great Lakes is the historical record from lake-level gauges. Although it can be semiquantitatively extended back into the late 1700's, the historical record is too short to recognize long-term patterns of lake-level behavior. To extend the historical record, information must be obtained from the Great Lakes geologic record. Such information includes the elevation and age of geomorphic features and stratigraphic sequences. One of the longest geologic records of late Holocene lake-level variation is preserved in a beach-ridge complex along the southern shore of Lake Michigan called the Toleston Beach. This strandplain contains over 150 beach ridges that arc across northwestern Indiana and fan out into northeastern Illinois. Each ridge was formed during the fall from a high lake level, and the elevation of the foreshore deposits in each ridge provides information on the upper physical limit of lake level over the past 4000 years. Three scales of quasi-periodic lake-level variation were determined by radiocarbon-dating basal peats of wetlands between the ridges and by measuring the elevation of foreshore (swash) deposits within ridges. These three scales are: (1) a short-term and small-scale fluctuation of 25 to 35 years with a range of about 0.5 to 0.6 m; (2) an intermediate-term and meso-scale fluctuation of 140 to 160 years and a range of about 0.8 to 0.9 m; and (3) a long-term and large-scale fluctuation of 500 to 600 years and a range of 1.8 to 3.7 m. The short-term and intermediate-term fluctuations are reflected in the historical record. An increase in the rate of shoreline progradation from east to west across Indiana's shoreline causes differential preservation of the lake-level fluctuations. That is, groups of four to six ridges in the western part of the strandplain that formed in response to the small-scale fluctuations combine eastward into single ridges and groups of ridges representing the meso-scale fluctuations. The large-scale fluctuations produced the most dramatic response in the western part of the Toleston Beach. Here, following each high stand, individual spits prograded southward off of a bedrock headland. The successive spit extensions created several small lakes landward of the spits and started the 20 km eastward stream-mouth deflection of the Grand Calumet River across Indiana's western lakeshore.

Illinois, Indiana

Mapping Shoreline Change Using Digital Orthophotogrammetry on Maui, Hawaii

Digital, aerial orthophotomosaics with 0.5-3.0 m horizontal accuracy, used with NOAA topographic maps (T-sheets), document past shoreline positions on Maui Island, Hawaii. Outliers in the shoreline position database are determined using a least median of squares regression. Least squares linear regression of the reweighted data (outliers excluded) is used to determine a shoreline trend termed the reweighted linear squares (RLS). To determine the annual erosion hazard rate (AEHR) for use by shoreline managers the RLS data is smoothed in the longshore direction using a weighted moving average five transects wide with the smoothed rate applied to the center transect. Weightings within each five transect group are 1,3,5,3,1. AEHR's (smoothed RLS values) are plotted on a 1:3000 map series for use by shoreline managers and planners. These maps are displayed on the web for public reference at http://www.co.maui.hi.us/ departments/Planning/erosion.htm. An end-point rate of change is also calculated using the earliest T-sheet and the latest collected shoreline (1997 or 2002). The resulting database consists of 3565 separate erosion rates spaced every 20 m along 90 km of sandy shoreline. Three regions are analyzed: Kihei, West Maui, and North Shore coasts. The Kihei Coast has an average AEHR of about 0.3 m/yr, an end point rate (EPR) of 0.2 m/yr, 2.8 km of beach loss and 19 percent beach narrowing in the period 1949-1997. Over the same period the West Maui coast has an average AEHR of about 0.2 m/yr, an average EPR of about 0.2 m/yr, about 4.5 km of beach loss and 25 percent beach narrowing. The North Shore has an average AEHR of about 0.4 m/yr, an average EPR of about 0.3 m/yr, 0.8 km of beach loss and 15 percent beach narrowing. The mean, island-wide EPR of eroding shorelines is 0.24 m/yr and the average AEHR of eroding shorelines is about 0.3 m/yr. The overall shoreline change rate, erosion and accretion included, as measured using the unsmoothed RLS technique is 0.21 m/yr. Island wide changes in beach width show a 19 percent decrease over the period 1949/ 1950 to 1997/2002. Island-wide, about 8 km of dry beach has been lost since 1949 (i.e., high water against hard engineering structures and natural rock substrate).

Conference Paper

A Bayesian approach to predict sub-annual beach change and recovery

The upper beach, between the astronomical high tide and the dune-toe, supports habitat and recreation along many beaches, making predictions of upper beach change valuable to coastal managers and the public. We developed and tested a Bayesian network (BN) to predict the cross-shore position of an upper beach elevation contour (Z l D) following 1 month to 1-year intervals at Fire Island, New York. We combine hydrodynamic data with series of island-wide topographic data and spatially limited cross-shore profiles. First, we predicted beach configuration of Z l D positions at high spatial resolution (50 m) over intervals spanning 2005–2014. Compared to untrained model predictions, in which all six outcomes are equally likely (prior likelihood = 0.16), our prediction metrics (skill = 0.52; log likelihood ratio = 0.14; accuracy = 0.56) indicate the BN confidently predicts upper beach dynamics. Next, the BN forecasted three intervals of beach recovery following Hurricane Sandy. Results suggest the pre-Sandy training data is sufficiently robust to require only periodic updates to beach slope observations to maintain confidence for forecasts. Finally, we varied input data, using observations collected at a range of temporal (1–12 months) and spatial (50 m to > 1 km) resolutions to evaluate model skill. This experiment shows that data collection techniques with different spatial and temporal frequencies can be used to inform a single modeling framework and can provide insight to BN training requirements. Overall, results indicate that BNs and inputs can be developed for broad coastal change assessment or tailored to a set of predictive requirements, making this methodology applicable to a variety of coastal prediction scenarios.

Estuaries and Coasts

Beach profile variation on Hawaiian carbonate beaches

Beach profiles from selected Oahu and Maui beaches quantitatively document beach volume variation and change between 1994 and 1999. Along exposed, high-energy beaches, large fluctuations in beach volume, characterized primarily by the formation and erosion of extensive berms, dominate the seasonal changes. Beaches along more protected stretches of coastline show much less variation in profile morphology. Beaches on the west (leeward) coast of Oahu experienced the most seasonal variation in profile volume, followed by the north shore, east (windward) shore, and south shore. Similar to Oahu, beaches along the west coast of Maui showed the greatest overall profile variation. However, the mean variation for profiles along a single coastal reach showed little difference compared to other coastal segments. Although some beaches showed net gain or loss during the study period, most beaches remained relatively stable with change limited to a finite envelope. No island-wide trends in beach erosion or accretion were observed during the study period. However, no extreme events, such as tropical storms or hurricanes, directly influenced the Hawaiian Islands during the study period. This data set should therefore be considered as representative of typical annual beach activity. Greater variation and possible long-term change would be expected during extreme events.

Conference Paper

Mass-mortality of guillemots ( Uria aalge ) in the Gulf of Alaska in 1993

During the first six months of 1993, about 3500 dead and moribund guillemots ( Uria aalge ) were observed throughout the northern Gulf of Alaska coast ( ca 1800 km range). Mortality peaked during March. Highest numbers were observed in western Prince William Sound and along the south coast of the Kenai Peninsula. Large flocks of live guillemots gathered in nearshore waters, in contrast to most winters when guillemots reside offshore. Most guillemots recovered were extremely emaciated ( ca 60% of normal weight) and sub-adult (80%). Based on carcass deposition and persistence experiments, we calculate that about 10 900 birds eventually came ashore on beaches that were surveyed. Even if most birds killed made it to shore, only a fraction of beaches in the Gulf of Alaska were surveyed and we estimate that a minimum total of 120 000 guillemots died. Results of other investigations on potential causes of mortality (biotoxins, pathogens, parasites, metals, etc.) were either negative or inconclusive, and necropsies lead us to believe that starvation was the proximate cause of death. Reduced food availability could have been related to anomalous sea conditions found during the prolonged 1990–1995 El Niño-Southern Oscillation event.

Alaska

Genesis of the Spar Lake strata-bound copper-silver deposit, Montana: Part I. Controls inherited from sedimentation and preore diagenesis

Mineable zones of the Spar Lake deposit occur where argentiferous copper sulfides and native silver formed cements and replaced certain earlier cements and clasts in the gently dipping middle quartzite beds of the upper member of the Revett Formation, middle Proterozoic Belt Supergroup. The copper sulfides and native silver are part of a large, zoned system of authigenic ore and gangue minerals at Spar Lake. Mineral zone boundaries of ore and gangue phases cross all five stratigraphic units of the upper member.Deduced depositional environments for the host sedimentary rocks include beach and near-shore slope environments for the lower quartzite beds and subtidal(?) channels for the middle quartzite beds. The deposit must be epigenetic because mineral zone boundaries cross every facies in the sequence of beach and nearshore slope sediments.Mineral zonation has been mapped, and seven major associations, each named for its most abundant sulfide and/or most characteristic gangue cement, are recognized. Zones that appear to be developed on a regional scale include, in spatial order, pyrite-calcite, chalcopyrite-ankerite, and the lavender (hematitic) zone. Minor concentrations of base and precious metals occur along boundaries between the hematite and chalcopyrite-ankerite zones, and between the chalcopyrite-ankerite and pyrite-calcite zones; however, at the major concentrations of metals in the Revett Formation, including the Spar Lake deposit, additional mineral zones are developed between the chalcopyrite-ankerite and pyrite-calcite regional zones. Mineral zones at the deposit are, from northwest to southeast: pyrite-calcite, galena-calcite, chalcopyrite-calcite, bornite-calcite, chalcocite-chlorite, and chalcopyrite-ankerite. Gangue minerals, including carbonates, Fe-Ti oxides, chlorite, barite, authigenic feldspars, and apatite, are zonally distributed with boundaries parallel to the sulfide-mineral zone boundaries. Bornite-calcite and chalcocite-chlorite zones form ore grades in certain, but not all, quartzite intervals.As observed at unmetamorphosed deposits where sulfide-mineral zonation is similar, some pyrite-calcite-zone minerals were probably replaced by galena-calcite-zone minerals, which were probably succeeded, in sequence, by minerals of the chalcopyrite-calcite, bornite-calcite, and chalcocite-chlorite zones. This inferred paragenesis suggests that the chalcocite-chlorite zone is more proximal to the source of ore solutions than the galena-calcite or pyrite-calcite zones. The subeconomic chalcopyrite-ankerite zone, found farthest to the southeast at the Spar Lake deposit, was apparently even more proximal to the source than ore. Ore deposition took place during diagenesis from solutions that migrated upward and laterally through the sediments from a southeasterly source.The distributions of mineral zones and ore grades were controlled by two factors, one inherited from sedimentation and the other from preore diagenesis. All mineral zones spread out within coarser grained portions of quartzite units, suggesting that lateral migration of ore solutions was controlled by primary permeability of the sediments. However, high grades of copper and silver are found only in certain of the coarser grained beds. The distributions of higher grades suggest that ore mineral abundances reflect the abundances of preore diagenetic phases which were involved in the ore precipitation reactions. Preore reactant phases were evidently more abundant in sandstones deposited in subtidal(?) channels (the ore-grade middle quartzite beds) than in sandstones deposited in beach and nearshore slope environments (the lower quartzite beds). The identity of the reactant phases and the processes that resulted in their concentration at the site of later ore deposition remain unknown, although a preore sulfide- and hydrocarbon-bearing pore fluid appears to be the best hypothesis as to the identity of the reactants.

Economic Geology

Coastal sensitivity to sea level rise— A focus on the Mid-Atlantic Region

This Synthesis and Assessment Product (SAP), developed as part of the U.S. Climate Change Science Program, examines potential effects of sea-level rise from climate change during the twenty-first century, with a focus on the mid-Atlantic coast of the United States. Using scientific literature and policy-related documents, the SAP describes the physical environments; potential changes to coastal environments, wetlands, and vulnerable species; societal impacts and implications of sea-level rise; decisions that may be sensitive to sea-level rise; opportunities for adaptation; and institutional barriers to adaptation. The SAP also outlines the policy context in the mid-Atlantic region and describes the implications of sea-level rise impacts for other regions of the United States. Finally, this SAP discusses ways natural and social science research can improve understanding and prediction of potential impacts to aid planning and decision making. Projections of sea-level rise for the twenty-first century vary widely, ranging from several centimeters to more than a meter. Rising sea level can inundate low areas and increase flooding, coastal erosion, wetland loss, and saltwater intrusion into estuaries and freshwater aquifers. Existing elevation data for the mid-Atlantic United States do not provide the degree of confidence needed for local decision making. Systematic nationwide collection of high-resolution elevation data would improve the ability to conduct detailed assessments in support of planning. The coastal zone is dynamic and the response of coastal areas to sea-level rise is more complex than simple inundation. Much of the United States consists of coastal environments and landforms such as barrier islands and wetlands that will respond to sea-level rise by changing shape, size, or position. The combined effects of sea-level rise and other climate change factors such as storms may cause rapid and irreversible coastal change. All these changes will affect coastal habitats and species. Increasing population and development in coastal areas also affects the ability of natural ecosystems to adjust to sea-level rise. Coastal communities and property owners have responded to coastal hazards by erecting shore protection structures, elevating land and buildings, or relocating inland. Accelerated sea-level rise would increase the costs and environmental impacts of these responses. Shoreline armoring can eliminate the land along the shore to which the public has access; beach nourishment projects often increase access to the shore. Preparing for sea-level rise can be justified in many cases, because the cost of preparing now is small compared to the cost of reacting later. Examples include wetland protection, flood insurance, longlived infrastructure, and coastal land-use planning. Nevertheless, preparing for sea-level rise has been the exception rather than the rule. Most coastal institutions were based on the implicit assumption that sea level and shorelines are stable. Efforts to plan for sea-level rise can be thwarted by several institutional biases, including government policies that encourage coastal development, flood insurance maps that do not consider sea-level rise, federal policies that prefer shoreline armoring over soft shore protection, and lack of plans delineating which areas would be protected or not as sea level rises. The prospect of accelerated sea-level rise and increased vulnerability in coastal regions underscores the immediate need for improving our scientific understanding of and ability to predict the effects of sea-level rise on natural systems and society. These actions, combined with development of decision support tools for taking adaptive actions and an effective public education program, can lessen the economic and environmental impacts of sea-level rise.

Report

Recommendations for a barrier island breach management plan for Fire Island National Seashore, including the Otis Pike High Dune Wilderness Area, Long Island, New York

The U.S Army Corps of Engineers, New York District is developing engineering plans, including economic costs and benefits, for storm damage reduction along an 83 mile stretch of the coastal barrier islands and beaches on the south shore of Long Island, NY from Fire Island Inlet east to the Montauk Point headland. The plan, expected to include various alternatives for storm protection and erosion mitigation, is referred to as the Fire Island to Montauk Point Reformulation Plan (FIMP). These plans are expected to follow the Corps of Engineers’ Environmental Operating Principles striving for long term environmental sustainability and balance between environmental protection and protection of human health and property. Fire Island National Seashore (FIIS), a 19,579 acre unit of the National Park System includes a 32 mile long coastal barrier island located within the FIMP project area. A seven-mile section of the park, Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness Area, is also a designated Federal Wilderness Area. The FIIS includes not only the barrier island and sand dunes, but also several islands, sand flats and wetlands landward of the barrier, submerged parts of Great South Bay shoreface, extending approximately 4,000 feet into the bay with the inner shelf region extending approximately 1,000 feet seaward of the Fire Island shoreline. The Fire Island barrier islands, a sand-starved system dominated by highly dynamic processes, are struggling to maintain their integrity in the face of sea-level rise and storms. Adding to the dilemma is that development on the barriers and the mainland has increased greatly during the past 50 years. As such, managers and decision makers in federal agencies, state agencies and local governments are challenged to balance tradeoffs between protection of lives and property, public access and long term conservation of natural habitats and processes and the plants and animals that depend on these habitats. National Park Service (NPS) policy stipulates that natural coastal processes be maintained to the greatest extent possible and not be impeded so as to conserve landforms, habitats and natural ecosystem resources that reply on the landforms and processes for long-term sustainability of the national park. Storms and associated processes such as waves, tides, currents and relative sea-level change are critical elements for the formation and evolution of these barrier islands, sand dunes, back-barrier sand flats and lagoons and vegetated wetlands. Processes such as wave run-up, overwash and barrier beaching, which occur during elevated storm surge are all necessary processes in enabling the efficient transfer of sediments, nutrients and marine water from the Atlantic Ocean across barriers and into Great South Bay. A large body of scientific data and information published over the past 50 years shows that such transfers of sediment and water from the ocean to the bays are essential for the long-term maintenance of the barrier island and back-bay systems and their biologically diverse habitats an d ecosystems. Current relative sea-level rise (~12 in/century) is chronic and pervasive in driving Long Island coastal change and with the likelihood of accelerating sea level rise in the near future, coastal hazards such as erosion, inundation, and storm surge flooding will increase, with corresponding increased risk to life and property on both Fire Island and on the mainland. In addition, the cumulative effects over the past century and more, both direct and indirect, of human impacts on the Long Island coast have altered the barrier beach and dunes and sediment transport processes. These impacts have likely increased the potential for breaching and increased risk to life and property on the coast and the mainland. Examples of direct impacts are: the stone jetties at Moriches, Shinnecock, and Fire Island tidal inlets and groin field structures at Westhampton that alter littoral processes, armoring and erosion-control stabilization of the headlandds such as the Montauk Point headlands, and deepening of navigation channels by dredging through the tidal inlets and in the bays. Indirect impacts that have a bearing on decisions to deal with breaching are: high-risk development of the barrier islands and low-lying areas of the mainland vulnerable to flooding, and the dredging of nearshore sand shoals for beach nourishment. The NPS strives to employ a coastal management framework for decision making that is based on assessment of the physical and ecological properties of the shoreline as well as human welfare and property. In order to protect developed areas of Fire Island and the mainland from loss of life, flooding, and other economic and physical damage, the NPS will likely need to consider allowing artificial closure of some breaches within the FIIS under certain circumstances. The decision by the NPS to allow breaches to evolve naturally and possibly close or to allow artificially closing breaches is based on four criteria: 1. Volumes of sediment transported landward and exchange of water and nutrients; 2. Elevated water levels and flooding risk to mainland life and property; 3. Engineering processes of artificial closure; and 4. Economic costs and benefits of artificial closure. This report for breach management presents protocols which specify when breach closures within the FIIS might be desirable and necessary, as well as provides recommendations for structural breach closure engineering operations which are indented to minimize negative impacts to the natural wilderness values and cultural resources within the FIIS, particularly the Otis Pike Wilderness Area. The goal of the plan is to strike a balance between protecting natural resources and allowing natural processes to operate and avoiding loss of life and excessive property damage.

New York

Human and ecosystem health in coastal systems

U.S. coastal economies and communities are facing an unprecedented and growing number of impacts to coastal ecosystems including beach and fishery closures, harmful algal blooms, loss of critical habitat, as well as shoreline damage. This paper synthesizes our present understanding of the dynamics of human and ecosystem health in coastal systems with a focus on the need to better understand nearshore physical process interactions with coastal pollutants and ecosystems (e.g. fate and transport, circulation, depositional environment, climate change). It is organized around two major topical areas and six subtopic areas: 1) Identifying and mitigating coastal pollutants, including fecal pollution, nutrients and harmful algal blooms, and microplastics; and 2) Resilient coastal ecosystems, which focuses on coastal fisheries, shellfish and natural and nature-based features (NNBF). Societal needs and the tools and technologies needed to address them are discussed for each subtopic. Recommendations for scientific research, observations, community engagement, and policies aim to help prioritize future research and investments. A better understanding of coastal physical processes and interactions with coastal pollutants and resilient ecosystems (e.g. fate and transport, circulation, depositional environment, climate change) is a critical need. Other research recommendations include the need to quantify potential threats to human and ecosystem health through accurate risk assessments and to quantify the resulting hazard risk reduction of natural and nature-based features; improve pollutant and ecosystem impacts forecasting by integrating frequent and new data points into existing and novel models; collect environmental data to calibrate and validate models to predict future impacts on coastal ecosystems and their evolution due to anthropogenic stressors (land-based pollution, overfishing, coastal development), climate change, and sea level rise; and develop lower cost and rapid response tools to help coastal managers better respond to pollutant and ecosystem threats.

Shore and Beach

AVIRIS data calibration information: Oquirrh and East Tintic mountains, Utah

The information contained herein pertains to the original reflectance calibration derived solely from the Saltair beach site on the shores of Great Salt Lake. The reflectance data derived from this calibration becomes markedly affected by residual absorptions due to atmospheric water vapor and carbon dioxide within short horizontal and vertical distances from the calibration site due to the presence of what is believed to be a distinct microclimate by the lake. Subsequent to the development of this web site, a new reflectance calibration was derived which mitigated these effects. Reflectance spectra of bright areas of known composition in the East Tintic Mountains, far from Great Salt Lake, were sampled from the calibrated high altitude AVIRIS data cubes and edited, or "polished," to identify artifacts related to residual absorptions of atmospheric gases, particulates, and sensor noise. The subtle artifacts identified in this way were incorporated into the multiplier spectra derived from the original calibration site, generating new multiplier spectra that were used to re-calibrate the ATREM- and path radiance-corrected cubes to reflectance. This process generated a reflectance calibration customized for the Oquirrh/East Tintic Mountain region.

Utah

A survey of storm-induced seaward-transport features observed during the 2019 and 2020 hurricane seasons

Hurricanes are known to play a critical role in reshaping coastlines, but often only impacts on the open ocean coast are considered, ignoring seaward-directed forces and responses. The identification of subaerial evidence for storm-induced seaward transport is a critical step towards understanding its impact on coastal resiliency. The visual features, found in the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, National Geodetic Survey Emergency Response Imagery (ERI) collected after recent hurricanes on the U.S. East Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coasts, include scours and channelized erosion, but also deposition on the shoreface or in the nearshore as deltas and fans of various sizes. We catalog all available ERI and describe recently formed features found on the North Core Banks, North Carolina, after Hurricane Dorian (2019); the Carolina coasts after Hurricane Isaias (2020); the Isles Dernieres, Louisiana, after Hurricane Zeta (2020); and the southwest coast of Louisiana, after Hurricanes Laura and Delta (2020). Hundreds of features were identified over nearly 200 km of coastline with the density of features exceeding 20 per km in some areas. Individual features range in size from 5 m to 500 m in the alongshore, with similar dimensions in the cross-shore direction, including the formation or reactivation of outlets. The extensive occurrence of these storm-induced return-flow and seawardflow morphologic features demonstrates that their role in coastal evolution and resilience may be more prominent than previously thought. Based on these observations we propose clarifying terms for return- and seaward-flow features to distinguish them from more frequently documented landward-flow features and advocate for their inclusion in coastal change hazards classification schemes and coastal evolution morphodynamic models.

southeast United States

High-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone

Sediment-level oscillations with heights of about 6 cm and shore-normal lengths of order 10 m have been measured in the swash zone of a high-energy, coarse-sand beach. Crests of oscillations were shore parallel and continuous alongshore. The oscillations were of such low steepness (height-to-length ratio approximately 0.006) that they were difficult to detect visually. The period of oscillation ranged between 6 and 15 min and decreased landward across the swash zone. The sediment-level oscillations were progressive landward with an average migration rate in the middle to upper swash zone of 0.8 m min-1. Migration was caused mostly by erosion on the seaward flank of the crest of an oscillation during a period of net seaward sediment transport. Thus, the observed migration was a form migration landward rather than a migration involving net landward sediment transport. The observed sediment-level oscillations were different than sand waves or other swash-zone bedforms previously described.

Marine Geology