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At least 343 records · Page 19Linked to original sources

Beach-cusp formation

Field experiments on beach-cusp formation were undertaken to document how the cuspate form develops and to test the edge-wave hypothesis on the uniform spacing of cusps. These involved observations of cusps forming from an initially plane foreshore. The cuspate form was observed to be a product of swash modification of an intertidal beach ridge as follows. A ridge, cut by a series of channels quasi-equally spaced along its length, was deposited onto the lower foreshore. The ridge migrated shoreward with flood tide, while the longshore positions of the channels remained fixed. On ebb tide, changes in swash circulation over the ridge allowed the upwash to flow shoreward through the channels and the channel mouths were eroded progressively wider until adjacent mouths met, effecting a cuspate shape. Measured spacings of cusps, ranging in size from less than 1 m to more than 12 m, agree well with computed spacings due to either zero-mode subharmonic or zero-mode synchronous edge waves. Edge-wave-induced longshore variations in run up will cause water ponded behind a ridge to converge at points of low swash and flow seaward as relatively narrow currents eroding channels spaced at one edge-wave wavelength for synchronous edge waves or one half wavelength for subharmonic edge waves. The channels are subsequently modified into cusp troughs as described above.

Marine Geology↗

A radiographic scanning technique for cores

A radiographic scanning technique (RST) can produce single continuous radiographs of cores or core sections up to 1.5 m long and up to 30 cm wide. Changing a portable industrial X-ray unit from the normal still-shot mode to a scanning mode requires simple, inexpensive, easily constructed, and highly durable equipment. Additional components include a conveyor system, antiscatter cylinder-diaphragm, adjustable sample platform, developing tanks, and a contact printer. Complete cores, half cores, sample slabs or peels may be scanned. Converting the X-ray unit from one mode to another is easy and can be accomplished without the use of special tools. RST provides the investigator with a convenient, continuous, high quality radiograph, saves time and money, and decreases the number of times cores have to be handled.

Marine Geology↗

Volcanic ash in surficial sediments of the Kodiak shelf - An indicator of sediment dispersal patterns

Surficial sediments of the Kodiak shelf, Gulf of Alaska, contain various amounts of volcanic ash whose physical properties indicate that it originated from the 1912 Katmai eruption. The distribution of ash is related to the shelf physiography and represents redistribution by oceanic circulation rather than the original depositional pattern from the volcanic event. The ash distribution can be used, in conjunction with the distribution of grain sizes, as an indicator of present-day sediment dispersal patterns on the shelf. No significant modern input of sediment is occurring on the Kodiak shelf, which is mostly covered by Pleistocene glacial deposits. Coarse-grained sediments on flat portions of shallow banks apparently are being winnowed, with the removed ash-rich fine material being deposited in shallow depressions on the banks and in three of the four major troughs that cut transversely across the shelf. The other major trough seems to be experiencing a relatively high-energy current regime, with little deposition of fine material.

Alaska↗

Sediment waves on the Monterey fan levee: a preliminary physical interpretation.

Sediment waves on the deep ocean floor occur mostly on the lower continental rise on slopes of 1° or less. Previous studies show that their amplitude and wavelength vary greatly, but little is known about their shape in plan. A detailed survey of a 30-km 2 area of abyssal-depth sediment waves associated with the levee of the Monterey fan valley shows a pattern of sinuous crests and troughs with parallel, well-bedded internal structure. Material in the upper 1 m of sediment consists predominantly of bioturbated, muddy coccolith ooze. A single thin, silty horizon can be correlated between adjoining waves. On the basis of measured wave dimensions and an estimate of flow velocity we use a simple two-layer model for water movement to infer approximate flow parameters. The sediment waves are considered to be formed most likely by low-velocity (10 cm/s), low-concentration turbidity flows approximately 100–800 m thick. This interpretation emphasizes the role of low-speed, low-concentration turbidity currents in the downslope movement of fine-grained material. This type of transport—deposition regime explains the formation of sediment waves very well except for certain waves occurring on depositional ridges in the deep ocean.

Marine Geology↗

Current-controlled, abyssal microtopography and sedimentation in Mozambique Basin, southwest Indian Ocean

The Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW) activity and the variations in the abundance and grain size of the terrigenous sediments, derived from Africa and Madagascar land masses, are reflected in different types of microtopography in the Mozambique Basin. In southerly areas, where the sediment supply is much less, the bottom-current activity has resulted in the presence of manganese nodules, a thin veneer of sediments, and the absence of sediment waves. Farther north, along the marginal areas of the basin where the fine-grained sediments from the Africa—Madagascar source have been supplied in abundance, wavy bedforms have been generated by AABW. Wavy bedforms do not exist even in the northerly areas if coarse-grained, turbidite sediments are present on the sea floor. The continuation of acoustic reflectors from the zone of turbidites in the central areas of the basin into the zone of sediment waves along the margins, and the lithology and structures in sediment cores from these zones suggest that the turbidity-current-fed, fine-grained sediments were deposited as wavy bedforms by AABW flow. Thus, sediment waves formed readily during Pleistocene times. The enrichment of quartz and displaced Antarctic diatoms, and the relatively low kaolinite/chlorite ratios in the sediments, the north-pointing current lineations on the sea floor, the lack of any perceptible sedimentary fill in the troughs of waves, and the dense nepheloid layer in the westerly areas of the Mozambique Basin, attest to the current-controlled sedimentation and generation of wavy bedforms during Holocene time also. The formation of sediment waves in the Mozambique Basin can be modeled after a fluvial antidune mechanism. This model envisages that internal waves, focused on a benthic boundary layer cap, have been locked in phase with sediment waves in the presence of an 8–10 cm/sec current in the Mozambique Basin. A density contrast of 2·10 −6 g/cm 3 appears to exist at the tops of benthic boundary layers in the Mozambique Basin and is quite sufficient for supporting the internal waves. The densiometric Froude number calculated for a 60–280 m thick boundary layer in the basin is close to unity or greater, and is compatible with the antidune model.

Marine Geology↗

Evolution of the continental margin of southern Spain and the Alboran Sea

Seismic reflection profiles and magnetic intensity measurements were collected across the southern continental margin of Spain and the Alboran basin between Spain and Africa. Correlation of the distinct seismic stratigraphy observed in the profiles to stratigraphic information obtained from cores at Deep Sea Drilling Project site 121 allows effective dating of tectonic events. The Alboran Sea basin occupies a zone of motion between the African and Iberian lithospheric plates that probably began to form by extension in late Miocene time (Tortonian). At the end of Miocene time (end of Messinian) profiles show that an angular unconformity was cut, and then the strata were block faulted before subsequent deposition. The erosion of the unconformity probably resulted from lowering of Mediterranean sea level by evaporation when the previous channel between the Mediterranean and Atlantic was closed. Continued extension probably caused the block faulting and, eventually the opening of the present channel to the Atlantic through the Strait of Gibraltar and the reflooding of the Mediterranean. Minor tectonic movements at the end of Calabrian time (early Pleistocene) apparently resulted in minor faulting, extensive transgression in southeastern Spain, and major changes in the sedimentary environment of the Alboran basin. Active faulting observed at five locations on seismic profiles seems to form a NNE zone of transcurrent movement across the Alboran Sea. This inferred fault trend is coincident with some bathymetric, magnetic and seismicity trends and colinear with active faults that have been mapped on-shore in Morocco and Spain. The faults were probably caused by stresses related to plate movements, and their direction was modified by inherited fractures in the lithosphere that floors the Alboran Sea.

Alboran Sea↗

Neogene sedimentation on the outer continental margin, southern Bering Sea

Neogene sedimentary rocks and sediments from sites on the outer continental margin in the southern Bering Sea and on the Alaska Peninsula are dominated by volcanic components that probably were eroded from an emergent Aleutian Ridge. A mainland continental source is subordinate. Most sediment in the marine environment was transported to the depositional sites by longshore currents, debris flows, and turbidity currents during times when sea level was near the outermost continental shelf. Fluctuations of sea level are ascribed both to worldwide glacio-eustatic effects and to regional vertical tectonics. Large drainage systems, such as the Yukon and Kuskokwim Rivers, had little direct influence on sedimentation along the continental slope and Unmak Plateau in the southern Bering Sea. Sediments from those drainage systems probably were transported to the floor of the Aleutian Basin, to the numerous shelf basins that underlie the outer continental shelf, and to the Arctic Ocean after passing through the Bering Strait. Environments of deposition at the sites along the outer continental margin have not changed significantly since the middle Miocene. The site on the Alaska Peninsula, however, is now emergent following shallow-marine and transitional sedimentation during the Neogene.

Alaska↗

Sedimentology and geochemistry of surface sediments, outer continental shelf, southern Bering Sea

Present-day sediment dynamics, combined with lowerings of sea level during the Pleistocene, have created a mixture of sediments on the outer continental shelf of the southern Bering Sea that was derived from the Alaskan Mainland, the Aleutian Islands, and the Pribilof ridge. Concentrations of finer-grained, higher-organic sediments in the region of the St. George basin have further modified regional distribution patterns of sediment composition. Q-mode factor analysis of 58 variables related to sediment size and composition - including content of major, minor, and trace elements, heavy and light minerals, and clay minerals - reveals three dominant associations of sediment: 1. (1) The most significant contribution, forming a coarse-grained sediment scattered over most of the shelf consists of felsic sediment derived from the generally quartz-rich rocks of the Alaskan mainland. This sediment contains relatively high concentrations of Si, Ba, Rb, quartz, garnet, epidote, metamorphic rock fragments, potassium feldspar, and illite. 2. (2) The next most important group, superimposed on the felsic group consists of andesitic sediment derived from the Aleutian Islands. This more mafic sediment contains relatively high concentrations of Na, Ca, Ti, Sr, V, Mn, Cu, Fe, Al, Co, Zn, Y, Yb, Ga, volcanic rock fragments, glass, clinopyroxene, smectite, and vermiculite. 3. (3) A local group of basaltic sediment, derived from rocks of the Pribilof Islands, is a subgroup of the Aleutian andesite group. Accumulation of fine-grained sediment in St. George basin has created a sediment group containing relatively high concentrations of C, S, U, Li, B, Zr, Ga, Hg, silt, and clay. Sediment of the Aleutian andesite group exhibits a strong gradient, or "plume", with concentrations decreasing away from Unimak Pass and toward St. George basin. The absence of present-day currents sufficient to move even clay-size material as well as the presence of Bering submarine canyon between the Aleutian Islands and the outer continental shelf and slope, indicates that Holocene sediment dynamics cannot be used to explain the observed distribution of surface sediment derived from the Aleutian Islands. We suggest that this pattern is relict and resulted from sediment dynamics during lower sea levels of the Pleistocene.

Alaska↗

Speculations on processes responsible for mesoscale current lineations on the continental shelf, southern California

A side-scan sonar survey of San Pedro shelf, California, reveals areas of mesoscale current lineations oriented approximately north-northeast in water depths of 20-25 m. Widths of sand ribbons range from 40 to 120 m and intervening erosional furrows, from 15 to 50 m. A conceptual model shows that the scale and orientation of current lineations agree with the dimensions and axial directions of Langmuir circulations theoretically generated by a combination either of southerly and southwesterly winds with regular trains of swell from the southern hemisphere or of two sets of wave trains crossing from the south and west. These longitudinal bedforms indicate shore-normal sediment transport at the times and on the areas of the shelf when and where they have been observed.

California↗

Influence of San Gabriel submarine canyon on narrow-shelf sediment dynamics, southern California

Variations in the concentration of total suspended particulate matter (TSM) collected 1 m above bottom, changes in vertical profiles of light transmission, and substrate textural patterns reveal a corridor for preferential sediment transport on San Pedro continental shelf, California. During the winter, this corridor, designated the preferential transport corridor (PTC), is defined by higher concentrations of TSM relative to the rest of the shelf and extends for 10-15 km from the inner shelf to the head of San Gabriel Submarine Canyon. Vertical profiles of light transmission within the PTC suggest density stratification throughout the water column and apparent mixing in the upper 15-20 m of water column on either side of the PTC. The PTC is not as fully developed during the summer. Excursions in isopleths of substrate textural variables perpendicular to isobaths in the PTC suggest that although the PTC is seasonally episodic, it recurs regularly over a longer period. A conceptual model attributes the PTC to modification of shelf circulation patterns by San Gabriel Canyon. Surface waves diverge over the canyon head resulting in differential wave set up at the shore face. This forces back turbid nearshore water for a distance of a few kilometers toward the canyon. At some point on the shelf, seaward nearshore flow overlaps offshore currents generated or modified by internal waves focused onto the shelf by the canyon and/or turbulent eddies produced by flow separation in currents moving across the canyon axis. At times, these subtle processes overprint tidal and wind-driven currents and thereby create the PTC. The model suggests that canyons heading several kilometers from shore can have a regulatory effect on narrow-shelf sediment dynamics.

California↗

Tertiary carbonate-dissolution cycles on the Sierra Leone Rise, eastern equatorial Atlantic Ocean

Most of the Tertiary section on Sierra Leone Rise off northwest Africa consists of chalk, marl, and limestone that show cyclic alterations of clay-rich and clay-poor beds about 20–60 cm thick. On the basis of biostratigraphic accumulation rates, the cycles in Oligocene and Miocene chalk have periods which average about 44,000 years, and those in Eocene siliceous limestone have periods of 4000–27,000 years. Several sections were sampled in detail to further define the cycles in terms of content of CaCO 3 , clay minerals, and relative abundances of calcareous nannofossils. Extending information gained by analyses of Pleistocene cores from the continental margin of northwest Africa to the Tertiary cycles on Sierra Leone Rise, both dilution by noncarbonate material and dissolution of CaCO 3 could have contributed to the observed relative variations in clay and CaCO 3 . However, dissolution of CaCO 3 as the main cause of the carbonate-clay cycles on the Sierra Leone Rise, rather than dilution by clay, is suggested by the large amount of change (several thousand percent) in terrigenous influx required to produce the observed variations in amount of clay and by the marked increase in abundance of dissolution-resistant discoasters relative to more easily dissolved coccoliths in low-carbonate parts of cycles. The main cause of dissolution of CaCO 3 was shoaling of the carbonate compensation depth (CCD) during the early Neogene and climatically induced fluctuations in the thickness of Antarctic Bottom Water.

Marine Geology↗

Stability of a very coarse-grained beach at Carmel, California

Monastery Beach at Carmel, California, is a pocket beach composed of very coarse to granular sediment. In profile, the beach has a well-defined berm crest; a steep foreshore; and a gently sloping, barless offshore covered by large, long-crested oscillation ripples. Carmel Submarine Canyon heads a few hundred meters offshore of the beach, and San Jose Creek, a small ephemeral steam, ponds onshore of the central part of the berm. Wave conditions vary greatly during a year because the beach lies open to the Pacific Ocean for azimuths between 270°–322°N whence come a variety of wave types. Even with a variable wave climate, Monastery Beach has maintained a swell profile for almost three years. Aperiodic beach surveys show that the beach responds little to seasonal changes in wave climate. Four survey lines maintained the same swell profile throughout the study period. The fifth line maintained a stable profile only across the foreshore; the berm was twice artificially breached during storms to prevent upstream flooding along San Jose Creek. In comparison, Carmel Beach, a nearby beach composed of medium sand, commonly alternates between swell and storm profiles. The increased stability of Monastery Beach relative to Carmel Beach is attributed to two factors: grain size differences and location within Carmel Bay. Rebuilding proceeded very slowly along the breached part of the berm at Monastery Beach. The probable cause of such a low recovery rate is that oscillation ripples trapped the sand that was carried offshore when San Jose Creek eroded the beach. The ripples, which are active under high-energy conditions, approach dormancy under low-energy conditions. Each ripple, therefore, acts like a reservoir, retaining sand during most swell conditions.

California↗

Smooth seaward-dipping horizons — An important factor in sea-floor stability?

Mass movement has influenced in varying degrees the morphology of the United States east coast continental margin seaward of the Baltimore Canyon trough as revealed by detailed geophysical studies using high-resolution 3.5-kHz, and seismic reflection data. Each of three areas studied is along the slope within a distance of 225 km, and is seaward of a nonglaciated shelf but near major land drainage systems. Thick sequences of material believed to be Pleistocene were deposited on the slope in all three areas. Sediment failure in the form of large block movement involving block thicknesses of more than 100 m, however, has taken place in only two of the areas. A factor common to the two areas where failure took place, but absent in the area where no failure took place, is smooth seaward-dipping sub-bottom horizons. Whatever the triggering mechanism, a smooth slip surface that has a seward slope may contribute to mass movement by reducing the internal friction. This may be one of several factors that should be considered in assessing slope stability.

Marine Geology↗

Development of the benethic nepheloid layer on the south Texas continental shelf, western Gulf of Mexico

A monitoring study of suspended sediment on the South Texas Continental Shelf indicates that a turbid benthic nepheloid layer is regionally persistent. A sequence of quasi-synoptic measurements of the water column obtained during six cruises in an 18-month period indicates substantial spatial and temporal variability in nepheloidlayer characteristics. Regionally, the thickness of the shelf nepheloid layer increases both seaward and in a convergent alongshelf direction. Greatest thicknesses occur over a muddy substrate, indicating a causal relationship; maximum observed local thickness is 35 m which occurs along the southern shelf break. Analyses of suspended particulate matter in shelf bottom waters indicate mean concentrations ranging from 49 · 10 4 to 111 · 10 4 particle counts/cc; concentrations persistently increase shoreward throughout the region. Bottom particulate matter is predominantly composed of inorganic detritus. Admixtures of organic skeletal particles, primarily diatoms, are generally present but average less than 10% of the total particulate composition. Texturally, the particulate matter in bottom waters is predominantly poorly sorted sediment composed of very fine silt (3.9–7.8 μm). The variability in nepheloid-layer characteristics indicates a highly dynamic shelf feature. The relationship of nepheloid-layer characteristics to hydrographic and substrate conditions suggests a conceptual model whereby nepheloid-layer development and maintenance are the results of the resuspension of sea-floor sediment. Bottom turbulence is attributed primarily to vertical shear and shoaling progressive internal waves generated by migrating shelf-water masses, especially oceanic frontal systems, and secondarily to shoaling surface gravity waves.

Texas↗

Mineralogy and composition of concentric layers within a manganese nodule from the North Pacific Ocean

The minor-element composition of concentric layers within a single ferromanganese nodule from the eastern North Pacific exhibits strong correlations with Fe and Mn contents but appears to be independent of pronounced mineralogic variations. On the basis of these correlations, the elemental composition of individual layers apparently is controlled by the relative contribution of two sources: seawater, and interstitial water of associated sediment. In contrast, the mineralogy of the nodule, consisting of birnessite in the outer few layers and todorokite in the inner layers, is considered to be a function of nodule diagenesis.

Marine Geology↗

Chemical and isotopic diversity in basalts dredged from the East Pacific Rise at 10°S, the fossil Galapagos Rise and the Nazca plate

We present petrographic, chemical and isotopic data for fresh lava samples dredged from three regions: (1) the fossil Galapagos Rise; (2) an elongate volcano near this extinct spreading center; and (3) the East Pacific Rise at 10°S. The samples from the Galapagos Rise are among the first samples from any fossil spreading center to be analyzed. Alkalic picrites from the elongate seamount and transitional basalts from the East Pacific Rise are both somewhat unusual rock types considering their respective tectonic environments. The dredges from the East Pacific Rise at about 10°S recovered unusual transitional, light rare-earth element (LREE) enriched basalts which show a range of fractionation. On the basis of their chemical and isotopic abundances, it is unlikely that the lavas are related by a single simple process of magmatic differentiation. We suggest that the mantle source region of these basalts was chemically and isotopically heterogeneous. The chemistry of LREE-depleted tholeiitic basalt dredged from near the axis of the extinct Galapagos Rise indicates complex petrogenesis and differentiation. The presence of tholeiitic basalts here indicates that unlike the Guadalupe and Mathematician fossil ridges, the Galapagos Rise has not been the site of voluminous post-abandonment alkalic volcanism. Alkalic basalts of picritic bulk composition dredged from an elongate seamount near the Galapagos Rise do not represent liquid compositions. Instead, we suggest that these alkalic liquids contain added olivine and plagioclase xenocrysts. Although most of the samples analyzed are very fresh, a few have been altered. The latter exhibit characteristic chemical and isotopic effects of seawater alteration.

Marine Geology↗

Modern sedimentary environments on the Rhode Island inner shelf, off the eastern United States

Analyses of side-scan sonar records along with previously published bathymetric, textural and subbottom data reveal the sedimentary environments on the inner Continental Shelf south of Narragansett Bay, Rhode Island. The bottom topography in this area is characterized by a broad central depression bordered by shallow, irregular sea floor on the north and east and by a discontinuous, curvilinear ridge on the south and west. Four distinct environments were identified: (1) Pre-Mesozoic coastal rocks are exposed on the sea floor at isolated locations near the shore (waterdepths < 32 m). These exposures have pronounced, irregular topographic relief and produce blotchy patterns op side-scan sonographs. (2) Glacial moraine deposits form the discontinuous offshore ridge. These deposits have hummocky sea-floor relief, are covered by lag gravel and boulders, and appear as predominantly black (strongly reflective) patterns on the side-scan records. (3) Over most of the shallow, irregular bottom in the northeast, on the flanks of the morainal ridge, and atop bathymetric highs, the sea floor is characterized as a mosaic of light and dark patches and lineations. The dark (more reflective) zones are areas of coarse sands and megaripples (wavelengths = 0.8--1.2 m) that either have no detectable relief or are slightly depressed relative to surrounding (fight) areas of finer-grained sands. (4) Smooth beds that produce nearly featureless patterns on the sonographs occupy the broad central bathymetric depression as well as smaller depressions north and east of Block Island. Within the broad depression, sonographs having practically no shading indicate a central zone of modern sandy silt, whereas records having moderate tonality define a peripheral belt of silty sand. The sedimentary environments that are outlined range from erosional or nondepositional (bedrock, glacial moraine) to depositional (featureless beds), and include areas that may reflect a combination of erosional and depositional processes (textural patchiness). The distribution and characteristics of the environments reveal the general post-glacial sedimentary history of this area and provide a guide to future utilization of the shelf surface.

Rhode Island↗

Submarine valleys in the northeastern Gulf of Alaska: Characteristics and probable origin

The continental shelf of the northeastern Gulf of Alaska Between Prince William Sound and Cross Sound is cut by at least eight major valleys. From west to east, these are Hinchinbrook Seavalley, Egg Island Trough, Kayak Trough, Bering Trough, Pamplona Troughs, Yakutat Valley, Alsek Valley and Yakobi Valley. Evidence common to most of these troughs or valleys indicating that the present morphology is due to glacial processes includes: (1) a pre-Holocene subbottom erosional surface incised into the underlying lithified strata of the shelf; (2) U-shaped cross sections, both at the sea floor and at the pre-Holocene erosional surface; (3) concave longitudinal sections, commonly shoaling at the seaward end; (4) till-like sediments collected from the walls or outer shelf adjacent to the troughs; and (5) seismic stratigraphy that can be correlated with bottom samples indicative of glacially derived strata. Depressions with tens of meters of relief are present on the pre-Holocene subbottom erosional surface beneath most of these valleys. These depressions have been partially filled by a seaward-thinning wedge of Holocene glacial flour (clayey silt) that is filling the valleys and blanketing the inner shelf at rates as high as 15 mm/yr (based on 210 Pb measurements). Although glaciation played a dominant role in the modern morphology of these sea valleys, structural features, including structurally controlled topographic highs on the shelf (e.g. Tarr Bank, Kayak Island, Pamplona Spur and Fairweather Ground) influenced the flow directions of the glacial lobes.

Alaska↗