Modeling the impacts of sand placement strategies on barrier island evolution in a semi-enclosed bay system

Davina L. Passeri; Rangley C. Mickey; David M. Thompson; Michael Itzkin; Elizabeth Godsey; Matthew V. Bilskie; Alexander C. Seymour; Autumn C. Poisson; Jin Ikeda; Scott C. Hagen

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104697

USGS · 70265047

Modeling the impacts of sand placement strategies on barrier island evolution in a semi-enclosed bay system

Davina L. Passeri·Rangley C. Mickey·David M. Thompson·Michael Itzkin·Elizabeth Godsey·Matthew V. Bilskie·Alexander C. Seymour·Autumn C. Poisson·Jin Ikeda·Scott C. Hagen

View original source ↗Export metadata ↓

Abstract

This study assesses the impacts of five proposed restoration actions at Little Dauphin Island, a low-lying relic spit in a semi-enclosed bay system on the Alabama coast. A Delft3D model is developed to simulate annual scale (five-year) sediment transport and resulting bed level changes. The model is validated with observed water level and wave data, as well as sediment tracers that were deployed offshore of the island. An XBeach model is developed to simulate storm-driven morphologic change and is validated for hurricanes Ivan (2004), Katrina (2005)and Sally (2020). Together, the models are used to assess differences in the island's morphological response under a no-action (status quo) scenario representing a continuous island, tidal inlet realignment, a sand motor nourishment, beach and dune restoration and a dredged offshore borrow area. The no-action scenario revealed that the island breached at multiple locations including the location of the proposed inlet realignment during each storm. The realigned channel did not prevent breaching on the island, but reduced the magnitude of sand transported through the breaches. The sand motor provided some sheltering to leeward shorelines during storms but did not prevent breaching from occurring elsewhere. Fairweather waves and currents were not strong enough to transport sand outside of the vicinity of the feature to feed adjacent shorelines as intended. The beach and dune restoration reduced storm-driven overtopping along the nourished shoreline. For habitat purposes, strategically placed bayous provided low elevation points that allowed overwash depending on the direction of cross-barrier water level gradients.

Explore related subjects

Coastal Engineering Article

Source-reported bounding extent: 30.24248531935423° to 30.288724454387562° latitude; -88.13726832368842° to -88.07138489364338° longitude. This indicates report coverage, not an exact sampling location. View area on OpenStreetMap.

Keep this discovery

Explore connections, maps & timelines

BibTeX RIS

Davina L. Passeri, Rangley C. Mickey, David M. Thompson, Michael Itzkin, Elizabeth Godsey, Matthew V. Bilskie, Alexander C. Seymour, Autumn C. Poisson, Jin Ikeda, Scott C. Hagen. 2025-01-19. Modeling the impacts of sand placement strategies on barrier island evolution in a semi-enclosed bay system. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104697

Cite the original work for its findings. Save a collection to share your selection of sources.

KEEP EXPLORING

Related USGS reports

USGS2026

Morphodynamic controls on the performance of dune-based coastal flood mitigation under sea-level rise

Dune-based adaptation is increasingly used as a nature-based solution for coastal flood mitigation, yet many assessments rely on hydrodynamic-only approaches that treat beach and dune morphology as static, neglecting storm-driven erosion that can degrade dune performance during extreme events. This study develops a process-based modeling framework coupling extreme value analysis of regional wave climate with XBeach surfbeat simulations to evaluate coastal flooding, erosion, and dune performance across three time horizons (2025, 2055, 2085) and four storm return periods (5, 20, 50, and 100 years) at two contrasting sites in Santa Cruz County, California. At Santa Cruz Beach, flood extent increases at an accelerating rate with sea-level rise (SLR) for a given return period, while higher return period storms exhibit diminishing incremental increases under fixed SLR conditions. Storm-scale morphodynamic feedbacks reduce predicted flood extent by up to 32.4% through profile adjustment and nearshore bar formation. Dune effectiveness is strongly regime-dependent, reducing flooding by up to 60% under collision-regime conditions but declining rapidly as the system transitions toward overwash and inundation under stronger storms and late-century SLR. Comparison of static and erodible dune representations shows that flood estimates are not consistently conservative, with differences reaching up to 54.3% depending on storm intensity and time horizon. At Capitola Beach, limited accommodation space and water-level-dominated dynamics collectively constrain morphodynamic adjustment, render the site near its inundation capacity under present-day conditions, and result in near-complete dune collapse and limited flood mitigation across all scenarios. These findings highlight the importance of site-specific regime evaluation, process-based morphodynamic modeling, and adaptive management when assessing dune-based adaptation under rising sea levels.

California↗

USGS2026

HyFlood: A surrogate-model-based framework for compound coastal flooding

Compound coastal flooding is a major threat to low-lying coastal regions and is expected to intensify under future climate change projections. However, modeling the joint interaction of waves, storm surge, tides, and rainfall remains computationally demanding, limiting the development of fast and reliable forecast tools. Here we present HyFlood, a hybrid statistical-numerical downscaling framework capable of computing and mapping high-resolution compound flood hazards while substantially reducing the computational cost compared with fully process-based hydrodynamic modeling. HyFlood combines statistical sampling and selection algorithms with a cascade of reduced-complexity surrogate models that emulate nearshore wave transformation, surf-zone hydrodynamics, and coastal, fluvial, and pluvial flooding. The surrogate models employ machine-learning and regression algorithms applied to a low-dimensional representation of the flooding outputs, obtained through statistical dimensionality reduction. The framework is demonstrated in southern O'ahu, Hawai'i, a region exposed to elevated sea levels driven by tides, waves, and storm surge along with frequent precipitation-driven flash flooding. Validation of the surrogates against the physics-based model outputs demonstrates that HyFlood accurately reproduces daily maxima of spatially distributed flooding depths. This hybrid approach offers a scalable and efficient tool to better quantify how changes in flooding drivers translate into hazard and impact assessments, and to support compound-flood risk assessments and climate-change adaptation planning.

Hawaii↗

USGS2025

Evaluating five shoreline change models against 40 years of field survey data at an embayed sandy beach

Robust and reliable models are needed to understand how coastlines will evolve over the coming decades, driven by both natural variability and climate change. This study evaluated how accurately five popular ‘reduced-complexity’ models replicate multi-decadal shoreline change at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach, a sandy embayment in Sydney, Australia. Measured shoreline positions derived from approximately monthly field surveys were used for 20-year calibration and 20-year validation periods. The models performed similarly on average but with large variability between transects. The set-up of several models was modified to compensate for their sensitivity to imperfect input wave data, and further site-specific improvements were identified. Capturing interannual to decadal-scale variability in cross-shore and longshore dynamics at this site was challenging for all five models. Models appeared to aggregate key processes at this timescale into parameter values rather than representing them directly. This suggests time-varying parameters or changes to model structure may be necessary for decadal-scale simulations.

Coastal Engineering↗