USGS Science⌕ Search

USGS · 70211204

Blind testing of shoreline evolution models

Abstract

Beaches around the world continuously adjust to daily and seasonal changes in wave and tide conditions, which are themselves changing over longer time-scales. Different approaches to predict multi-year shoreline evolution have been implemented; however, robust and reliable predictions of shoreline evolution are still problematic even in short-term scenarios (shorter than decadal). Here we show results of a modelling competition, where 19 numerical models (a mix of established shoreline models and machine learning techniques) were tested using data collected for Tairua beach, New Zealand with 18 years of daily averaged alongshore shoreline position and beach rotation (orientation) data obtained from a camera system. In general, traditional shoreline models and machine learning techniques were able to reproduce shoreline changes during the calibration period (1999–2014) for normal conditions but some of the model struggled to predict extreme and fast oscillations. During the forecast period (unseen data, 2014–2017), both approaches showed a decrease in models’ capability to predict the shoreline position. This was more evident for some of the machine learning algorithms. A model ensemble performed better than individual models and enables assessment of uncertainties in model architecture. Research-coordinated approaches (e.g., modelling competitions) can fuel advances in predictive capabilities and provide a forum for the discussion about the advantages/disadvantages of available models.

Explore related subjects

Keep this discovery

Explore connections, maps & timelines

BibTeXRIS

Jennifer Montaño, Giovanni Coco, Jose Antolinez, Tomas Beuzen, Karin R. Bryan, Laura Cagigal, Bruno Castelle, Mark Davidson, Evan B. Goldstein, Raimundo Ibaceta, Déborah Idier, Bonnie C. Ludka, Sina Masoud-Ansari, Fernando Mendez, A. Brad Murray, Nathaniel G. Plant, Katherine Ratlif, Arthur Robinet, Ana Rueda, Nadia Sénéchal, Joshua Simmons, Kristen Splinter, Scott Stephens, Ian Townend, Sean Vitousek, Kilian Vos. 2020-02-07. Blind testing of shoreline evolution models. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-59018-y

Cite the original work for its findings. Save a collection to share your selection of sources.

KEEP EXPLORING

Related USGS reports

Spontaneous combustion of metal sulfide minerals and implications for seafloor massive sulfide mining

Metal sulfide minerals are abundant phases in many environments on earth, including seafloor massive sulfide (SMS) deposits, which occur at hydrothermal vents throughout the global ocean. These deep-sea settings are currently undergoing exploration for potential future mining. Here, we describe rocks from Escanaba Trough on the southern Gorda Ridge that underwent spontaneous combustion during laboratory processing. We compared the mineralogy, composition, and thermogravimetric behavior of the combusting samples to rocks from the same location that did not combust. We then used thermodynamic analyses to evaluate the exothermic nature of different metal sulfide oxidation reactions. The combusting rocks are primarily composed of nanocrystalline marcasite pseudomorphing blades of primary pyrrhotite. These altered, nanocrystalline rocks are less stable than their primary predecessors. Typically, recrystallization decreases reactivity as minerals trend towards steady state; however, both of the combusting samples we characterized are secondary, and demonstrate the instability of this metastable intermediate phase. Further, thermodynamic calculations indicate that metal sulfide oxidation is more exothermic when oxygen serves as the oxidant, as occurs in seawater or air. The distinct mineralogy, texture, and setting of SMS deposits in the modern oceans thus suggests a greater potential for self-heating in comparison to their ancient analogues.

Scientific Reports↗

Rewilding the upper Klamath River Basin: Rapid recolonization of Chinook salmon following the world’s largest dam removal

Habitat fragmentation is a global driver of decline in biodiversity, yet evaluations of ecological response following re-connection remain rare. In 2024, four hydroelectric dams on the Klamath River were removed, reconnecting over 640 km of anadromous habitat and marking the largest dam removal project completed to date. We used a stationary high-resolution multi-beam imaging SONAR to quantify adult Chinook salmon ( Oncorhynchus tshawytscha ) passage into newly reopened reaches during the first two migratory seasons following dam removal. An estimated 7,742 (95% CI: 7,702–7,778) Chinook salmon migrated upstream in 2024 and 13,310 (95% CI: 12,876–13,733) in 2025, representing 18–19% of fish returning to the Klamath River Basin. Within this period, Chinook salmon recolonized 88% of their documented historical distribution, expanding into 345 km of reconnected habitats and reaching elevations of up to 1,250 m. Recolonization required fish to swim through dam removal sites, complex hydraulic corridors and engineered fishways, demonstrating the propensity for rapid recolonization at basin scale despite these challenges. These findings provide the first quantitative assessment of salmon response to the world’s largest dam removal and demonstrate how reconnection can catalyze large-scale recolonization in historically fragmented river networks.

California, Oregon↗

Rapid intensification of Karenia brevis red tides after hurricane Milton revealed by PACE-OCI hyperspectral unmixing

Estuarine and coastal systems, shaped by transient physical–biological interactions and recurrent harmful algal blooms, often undergo episodic shifts in phytoplankton community composition (PCC). We present PhytoUnmix , a deep learning spectral unmixing framework applied to NASA’s hyperspectral PACE (Plankton, Aerosol, Cloud, Ocean Ecosystem) mission, to resolve PCC dynamics during a red tide bloom following Hurricane Milton (2024) on the West Florida Shelf, USA. PACE-derived PCC, together with upper-ocean physical observations, revealed contrasting phytoplankton community patterns across distinct post-hurricane hydrographic conditions: offshore wind-curl induced upwelling exhibited higher relative abundance of diatoms, whereas nearshore regions affected by northerly winds and Ekman transport along with enhanced upwelling were associated with coastal Karenia brevis bloom. For the first time, synergistic observations using PACE and Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) showed a rapid rise in dinoflagellates nearshore, with concurrent declines in diatoms and chlorophytes, while cryptophytes co-increased. These transient shifts likely reflected not only physical stirring but also biological responses, as freshwater inputs increased nutrient availability, and coincided with intensified red tides and spatially heterogeneous phytoplankton responses, such as, initial increases in diatoms and cyanobacteria followed by Karenia brevis dominance. Together, PACE and SWOT provide unprecedented capacity to resolve physical–biological linkages in coastal ecosystems.

Florida↗