USGS ScienceSearch

USGS · 70169316

Variability of the internal tide on the southern Monterey Bay continental shelf and associated bottom boundary layer sediment transport

Abstract

A 6-month deployment of instrumentation from April to October 2012 in 90 m water depth near the outer edge of the mid-shelf mud belt in southern Monterey Bay, California, reveals the importance regional upwelling on water column density structure, potentially accounting for the majority of the variability in internal tidal energy flux across the shelf. Observations consisted of time-series measurements of water-column currents, temperature and salinity, and near-bed currents and suspended matter. The internal tide accounted for 15–25% of the water-column current variance and the barotropic tide accounted for up to 35%. The subtidal flow showed remarkably little shear and was dominated by the 7–14 day band, which is associated with relaxations in the dominant equatorward winds typical of coastal California in the spring and summer. Upwelling and relaxation events resulted in strong near-bed flows and accounted for almost half of the current stress on the seafloor (not accounting for wave orbital velocities), and may have driven along-shelf geostrophic flow during steady state conditions. Several elevated suspended particulate matter (SPM) events occurred within 3 m of the bed and were generally associated with higher, long-period surface waves. However, these peaks in SPM did not coincide with the predicted resuspension events from the modeled combined wave–current shear stress, indicating that the observed SPM at our site was most likely resuspended elsewhere and advected along-isobath. Sediment flux was almost equal in magnitude in the alongshore and cross-shore directions. Instances of wave–current shear stress that exceeded the threshold of resuspension for the silty-clays common at these water depths only occurred when near-bed orbital velocities due to long-period surface waves coincided with vigorous near-bed currents associated with the internal tide or upwelling/relaxation events. Thus upwelling/relaxation dynamics are primarily responsible for variability in the internal tide, as well as transport of near-bottom sediment in the mid-self mud belt during the relatively quiescent summer months.

Explore related subjects

90° N90° S · 180° W ← longitude → 180° E
Source-reported bounding extent: 36.511843709862454° to 37.08695336399672° latitude; -122.35610961914062° to -121.78619384765624° longitude. This indicates report coverage, not an exact sampling location. View area on OpenStreetMap.

Keep this discovery

Explore connections, maps & timelines

BibTeXRIS

Kurt J. Rosenberger, Curt D. Storlazzi, Olivia Cheriton. 2016. Variability of the internal tide on the southern Monterey Bay continental shelf and associated bottom boundary layer sediment transport. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2016.03.016

Cite the original work for its findings. Save a collection to share your selection of sources.

KEEP EXPLORING

Related USGS reports

Nearshore bathymetric changes along the Alaska Beaufort Sea coast and possible physical drivers

Erosion rates along Alaska's Beaufort Sea coast, among the highest in the world, are negatively impacting communities, industrial and military infrastructure, and wildlife habitat. Decreasing maximal winter ice extent and increasing summer open water duration and extent in the Beaufort Sea may be making the coast more vulnerable to destructive storm waves than during recent, colder, icier decades. Previous studies of Beaufort Sea coastal change have been limited to subaerial analyses of the shoreline. Here we describe nearshore seafloor change by comparing post-World War II (WWII) (1945-53) bathymetry data to recently acquired (1985–2018) bathymetry data and relate the observed seafloor change to adjacent shoreline change near Utqiagvik, within Stefansson Sound, and immediately west of Barter Island and Kaktovik. Within the Utqiagvik region, seabed erosion was generally highest (>1.0 m of loss) offshore of Point Barrow and along the eastern end of the Tapkaluk Islands, while there were lesser amounts of deposition (<0.5 m of gain) within the protected waters of Elson Lagoon. Sedimentation was generally highest offshore of Point Barrow, in a region of converging currents, and on the landward side of the barrier islands and spits fronting Elson Lagoon, which is likely related to a regional trend of westerly sediment transport and landward migration of the barrier islands. Within Stefansson Sound, perhaps the most notable changes from post-WWII bathymetry data compared to recent data are a switch from mixed, low erosion and deposition in 1997 to low deposition (<0.5 m) in 2018 east of the Boulder Patch, a switch from low erosion in 1997 to neutral depth change in 2018 in the channel between the north and south Boulder Patch areas, and higher deposition from 1997 to 2018 landward of the rapidly retreating barrier islands along the Sound's northern border. At Barter Island, high erosion near north-facing shorelines and high deposition near west-facing shorelines generally matched shoreline changes. One of our goals is to identify possible processes responsible for the depth changes we quantified. Using simple metrics that relate sediment characteristics with modeled waves and non-wave induced currents, we show that sediment resuspension and transport by both wave and non-wave driven currents likely contribute to the overall patterns of change within the ∼13 m isobath along the open coast, and that the influence of wave action affecting sediment transport is expanding seaward.

Alaska

Crowd-sourced SfM: Best practices for high resolution monitoring of coastal cliffs and bluffs

Structure from motion (SfM) photogrammetry is an increasingly common technique for measuring landscape change over time by deriving 3D point clouds and surface models from overlapping photographs. Traditional change detection approaches require photos that are geotagged with a differential GPS (DGPS) location, which requires expensive equipment that can limit the ability of communities and researchers to perform frequent ( i.e. daily, weekly, and/or monthly) surveys. Crowd-sourced photos can lower the barrier to entry and substantially increase the frequency of surveys, although such photos often lack accurate location information and can vary in quality. This paper presents a SfM approach for monitoring environmental change in high relief coastal environments that does not require all photos have DGPS location information and does not require field survey data. A 1.5 km section of coastal bluffs near the Elwha River Delta (Washington state) is used to demonstrate the efficacy of this approach. Photos of the bluff were collected with a digital SLR camera or phone camera while either on foot along the beach or from a boat as part of monitoring following removal of two large dams along the Elwha River during 2011–2013. Only 33% of photos had DGPS location information, whereas most photos had no location information or locations that were accurate to a couple of meters. All photos were processed using 3D, 4D, and fixed-floating (FF) SfM alignment methods and the resulting dense point clouds are used to compare the different alignment approaches with crowd-sourced photo sets. Results demonstrate that 4D and FF approaches are more likely to reconstruct and are more accurate than the 3D approach. While the 4D and FF have comparable accuracies, the FF approach is several orders of magnitude more efficient, as this method can leverage camera location information from relatively few photos to improve the accuracy of all aligned and derived products. Effectively utilizing crowd-sourced photos in SfM change detection can improve the frequency of surveying a landscape in a more cost-effective approach that also has potential for citizen-science engagement and communication. This is especially important for data-poor environments such as high-relief coastal cliffs and bluffs, where near-nadir imagery and LIDAR may fail to accurately capture near-vertical cliffs or bluff faces. Based on the analysis of different photo alignment and filtering approaches, we present suggested best practices for engaging citizen scientists in coastal cliff and bluff monitoring efforts through collecting photos amenable for SfM reconstruction.

Washington

Observations of mixing and transport on a steep beach

Surfzone mixing and transport on a sandy, steep (∼1/8 slope), reflective beach at Carmel River State Beach, California, are described for a range of wave and alongshore flow conditions. Depth-limited wave breaking occurred close to the shore due to the steepness of the beach, creating a narrow surf/swash zone (∼10 m wide). Fluorescent Rhodamine dye was released as a slug in the surfzone, and the temporal and spatial evolution was measured using in-situ dye sensors. Dye concentration measured as a function of time reveals sharp fronts that quickly decay resulting in narrow peaks near the dye release, which subsequently broaden and decrease in peak concentration with alongshore distance. The measurements indicate two stages of mixing and transport occur inside the surfzone on the steep beach. 1) In the near-field (<50 m downstream of the dye release location), the dye fully mixed throughout the water column after a few incident waves then continued to disperse in two dimensions, with both advection and diffusion processes being important. 2) In the far-field (>50 m downstream from the dye release location), the mass transport was dominated by advection. The distance to the far-field is much shorter in the alongshore on a steep beach compared with a dissipative beach. Estimates of cross-shore and alongshore diffusion coefficients ( κ x , κ y ) were found to be similar in magnitude within the surfzone. Outside the surfzone in the far-field, the results suggest that the mixing processes are independent of those inside the surfzone. The mixing and transport of material observed on this steep beach are found to be analogous to that previously measured on dissipative beaches, however the diffusion coefficients within and outside the surfzone were found to be smaller on this steep beach.

California