Geology topics

Research about Duck, North Carolina

Source-linked reports with geographic coverage including Duck, North Carolina.

9 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2026

Measuring storm waves and water levels from a fixed structure with a rapidly deployable oceanographic radar

A new oceanographic radar instrument package was developed by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) to measure storm waves and water levels in the nearshore, capable of being deployed rapidly and transmitting data in near real-time. To test the performance and accuracy of the sensor, multiple years of data were collected over various hydrodynamic conditions and compared to long-term monitoring data collected at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) Field Research Facility in Duck, North Carolina, USA. The oceanographic radars were highly reliable, with less than 1% of the record being erroneous spikes or missing data points. At the end of the pier, the radar was highly accurate, with nearly perfect agreement in water level ( r 2 = 0.997) compared to a nearby National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) tide gauge, and good agreement in significant wave height ( r 2 = 0.98) and peak wave period ( r 2 = 0.65) compared to a nearby USACE sensor. This work demonstrates the potential of the USGS radar for rapid response storm deployments and collecting reliable and accurate hydrodynamic measurements in the nearshore for validating coastal impact models.

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USGS2024

Developing a decision tree model to forecast runup and assess uncertainty in empirical formulations

The coastal zone is a dynamic region that can change rapidly and significantly with respect to the morphology of the beach and incoming wave conditions. Runup forecasts may be improved by adapting a dynamic approach that allows for different runup models to be implemented in response to changes in beach state. Accurately forecasting wave runup is critical to characterize exposure to coastal hazards and provide an early warning against potential erosion and inundation. Here, we developed a decision tree model to produce a weighted ensemble of existing runup models to predict 1.25 years of runup at Duck, North Carolina, USA. We then applied the calibrated decision tree model to reproduce observed runup during the DUNEX experiment in Pea Island, North Carolina, USA. We found that the decision tree approach yielded a prediction that was comparable or greater in accuracy (i.e. higher r2, lower RMSE) than the individual runup models. We also interrogated the decision tree predictions to determine how the individual models perform relative to each other and why certain models perform better than others under the same observed wave and beach conditions. We found that the decision tree approach drew on the processes represented in the individual models in the ensemble to produce a forecast that is accurate and explainable without relying on prior knowledge of the study site(s) or requiring manual adjustments beyond the initial model training.

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USGS2023

Evaluation of nearshore bathymetric inversion algorithms using camera observations and synthetic numerical input of surface waves during storms

Nearshore bathymetry is difficult to measure using survey methods when wave heights approach the breaking limit. Remote sensing using digital cameras offers a way to observe the surf zone and calculate water depths based on phase speed but comes with its challenges of potentially noisy data that can introduce error into estimates of frequency and wavenumber used in phase speed calculation. This study investigates the robustness of a new version of a bathymetric inversion algorithm (cBathy, version 2.0) in moderate to energetic wave conditions by comparing depth estimates from timeseries’ of pixel intensity with depth estimates from synthetic water level data. The synthetic data are generated by the phase-resolving numerical model, SWASH, and optical data were collected during a field experiment in 2015. Model results from SWASH computed with known bathymetry are used as input to cBathy, and depth estimates are compared to nearshore surveys. Argus camera observations are also used as input to cBathy for the same times as the SWASH simulations. The SWASH simulations resolve breaking waves and do not include (optical) changes to the relation between water surface slope and pixel intensity, termed modulation transfer function, that occur during wave breaking, enabling better estimates from bathymetric inversion algorithms near morphologic features like sand bars. The results indicate that improvements result from eliminating of disruptions to the modulation transfer function caused by wave breaking and residual foam. We show that the use of synthetic wave data is a valuable means of isolating errors in bathymetric inversion algorithms.

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USGS2015

The role of suspension events in cross-shore and longshore suspended sediment transport in the surf zone

Suspension of sand in the surf zone is intermittent. Especially striking in a time series of concentration are periods of intense suspension, suspension events, when the water column suspended sediment concentration is an order of magnitude greater than the mean concentration. The prevalence, timing, and contribution of suspension events to cross-shore and longshore suspended sediment transport are explored using field data collected in the inner half of the surf zone during a large storm at Duck, NC. Suspension events are defined as periods when the concentration is above a threshold. Events tended to occur during onshore flow under the wave crest, resulting in an onshore contribution to the suspended sediment transport. Even though large events occurred less than 10 percent of the total time, at some locations onshore transport associated with suspension events was greater than mean-current driven offshore-directed transport during non-event periods, causing the net suspended sediment transport to be onshore. Events and fluctuations in longshore velocity were not correlated. However, events did increase the longshore suspended sediment transport by approximately the amount they increase the mean concentration, which can be up to 35%. Because of the lack of correlation, the longshore suspended sediment transport can be modeled without considering the details of the intensity and time of events as the vertical integration of the product of the time-averaged longshore velocity and an event-augmented time-averaged concentration. However, to accurately model cross-shore suspended sediment transport, the timing and intensity of suspension events must be reproduced.

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USGS2013

cBathy: A robust algorithm for estimating nearshore bathymetry

A three-part algorithm is described and tested to provide robust bathymetry maps based solely on long time series observations of surface wave motions. The first phase consists of frequency-dependent characterization of the wave field in which dominant frequencies are estimated by Fourier transform while corresponding wave numbers are derived from spatial gradients in cross-spectral phase over analysis tiles that can be small, allowing high-spatial resolution. Coherent spatial structures at each frequency are extracted by frequency-dependent empirical orthogonal function (EOF). In phase two, depths are found that best fit weighted sets of frequency-wave number pairs. These are subsequently smoothed in time in phase 3 using a Kalman filter that fills gaps in coverage and objectively averages new estimates of variable quality with prior estimates. Objective confidence intervals are returned. Tests at Duck, NC, using 16 surveys collected over 2 years showed a bias and root-mean-square (RMS) error of 0.19 and 0.51 m, respectively but were largest near the offshore limits of analysis (roughly 500 m from the camera) and near the steep shoreline where analysis tiles mix information from waves, swash and static dry sand. Performance was excellent for small waves but degraded somewhat with increasing wave height. Sand bars and their small-scale alongshore variability were well resolved. A single ground truth survey from a dissipative, low-sloping beach (Agate Beach, OR) showed similar errors over a region that extended several kilometers from the camera and reached depths of 14 m. Vector wave number estimates can also be incorporated into data assimilation models of nearshore dynamics.

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USGS2012

Field observations of swash zone flow patterns and 3D morphodynamics

Rapid video measurements of foreshore morphology and velocity were collected at Duck, NC in 1997 to investigate sediment transport processes in the swash zone. Estimates of foreshore evolution over a roughly 30 m cross-shore by 80 m alongshore study area were determined using a stereogrammetric technique. During the passage of a small storm (offshore wave heights increased from 1.4 to 2.5 m), the foreshore eroded nearly 40 cm in less than 4 hours. Dense, horizontal surface velocities were measured over a sub-region (roughly 30 m by 40 m) of the study area using a new particle image velocimetry technique. This technique was able to quantify velocities across the bore front approaching 5 m s –1 as well as the rapid velocities in the very shallow backwash flows. The velocity and foreshore topography measurements were used to test a three-dimensional energetics-based sediment transport model. Even though these data represent the most extensive and highly resolved swash measurements to date, the results showed that while the model could predict some of the qualitative trends in the observed foreshore change, it was a poor predictor of the observed magnitudes of foreshore change. Model — data comparisons differed by roughly an order of magnitude with observed foreshore changes on the order of 10's of centimeters and model predictions on the order of meters. This poor comparison suggests that future models of swash-zone sediment transport may require the inclusion of other physical processes such as bore turbulence, fluid accelerations and skewness, infiltration/exfiltration, water depth variations, and variable friction factors (to name a few).

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USGS2012

A circulation modeling approach for evaluating the conditions for shoreline instabilities

Analytical models predict the growth (instability) of shoreline salients when deep-water waves approach the coast from highly oblique angles, contrary to classical shoreline change models in which shoreline salients can only dissipate. Using the process-based wave, circulation, and sediment transport model Delft3D, we test this prediction for simulated bathymetric and wave characteristics approximating the open-ocean conditions at Duck, North Carolina. We consider two cases: a uniform coast with a varying wave approach angle, and a bathymetry with coastal salients and a single high-angle boundary wave condition. Incident wave conditions include a swell case with no wind and a wind-wave case with active local wave regeneration by wind. The uniform-coast tests predict transport maxima at oblique wave angles for both wave cases, indicating the potential for shoreline instabilities, similar to the analytical models. However, the critical angle for instability is much higher in the wind-wave case. Our tests with coastal salients agree with previous findings that a minimum salient length scale may be required for the instability effect to be active. Here, a salient with a longshore scale of 4 km results in transport divergence (erosion; no instability) at the salient crest while an 8 km salient results in transport convergence (accretion; instability) at the crest.

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USGS2004

Suspended sediment and hydrodynamics above mildly sloped long wave ripples

We investigate the spatial and temporal distribution of suspended sediment and the associated hydrodynamics over mildly sloped long wave ripples on the inner shelf. These bedforms had wavelengths of approximately 1 m and heights of approximately 5 cm, in a mean water depth of 4 m. The vertical and temporal structures of the suspended sediment concentration (SSC) are consistent with the entrainment of sediment on the offshore flank of the ripple, and rapid vertical mixing at the time of flow reversal, followed by advection onshore by the onshore fluid motion. This work confirms that the mechanism for sediment suspension above low-amplitude, long wave ripples is similar to the vortex formation process expected over steeper vortex ripples. Numerical simulations of the flow using the Dune2d model indicate that a separated rotational flow structure is generated at the flank of the ripple on the seaward side of the ripple crest, near the time of flow reversal. The simulations indicate that only one vortex is formed during each wave period, in agreement with the field observations. This asymmetry is due mainly to the presence of an offshore mean near-bed current of approximately 6 to 8 cm/s. The SSC is calculated by the model and compared to the field observations. A hydraulic bed roughness of 10 to 15 median grain diameters ( d 50 ) was used in order to match the model prediction to the observed SSC approximately 1 cm above the seabed (cab). However, the modeled SSC and turbulent kinetic energy were significantly lower than the field observations at elevations exceeding approximately 2 cab.

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USGS2000

Estimation of wave phase speed and nearshore bathymetry from video imagery

A new remote sensing technique based on video image processing has been developed for the estimation of nearshore bathymetry. The shoreward propagation of waves is measured using pixel intensity time series collected at a cross-shore array of locations using remotely operated video cameras. The incident band is identified, and the cross-spectral matrix is calculated for this band. The cross-shore component of wavenumber is found as the gradient in phase of the first complex empirical orthogonal function of this matrix. Water depth is then inferred from linear wave theory's dispersion relationship. Full bathymetry maps may be measured by collecting data in a large array composed of both cross-shore and longshore lines. Data are collected hourly throughout the day, and a stable, daily estimate of bathymetry is calculated from the median of the hourly estimates. The technique was tested using 30 days of hourly data collected at the SandyDuck experiment in Duck, North Carolina, in October 1997. Errors calculated as the difference between estimated depth and ground truth data show a mean bias of −35 cm (rms error = 91 cm). Expressed as a fraction of the true water depth, the mean percent error was 13% (rms error = 34%). Excluding the region of known wave nonlinearities over the bar crest, the accuracy of the technique improved, and the mean (rms) error was −20 cm (75 cm). Additionally, under low-amplitude swells (wave height H ≤ 1 m), the performance of the technique across the entire profile improved to 6% (29%) of the true water depth with a mean (rms) error of −12 cm (71 cm).

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