Geology topics

W. Rockwell Geyer

Publications and source records attributed to W. Rockwell Geyer.

9 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2012

Bathymetric controls on sediment transport in the Hudson River estuary: Lateral asymmetry and frontal trapping

Analyses of field observations and numerical model results have identified that sediment transport in the Hudson River estuary is laterally segregated between channel and shoals, features frontal trapping at multiple locations along the estuary, and varies significantly over the spring-neap tidal cycle. Lateral gradients in depth, and therefore baroclinic pressure gradient and stratification, control the lateral distribution of sediment transport. Within the saline estuary, sediment fluxes are strongly landward in the channel and seaward on the shoals. At multiple locations, bottom salinity fronts form at bathymetric transitions in width or depth. Sediment convergences near the fronts create local maxima in suspended-sediment concentration and deposition, providing a general mechanism for creation of secondary estuarine turbidity maxima at bathymetric transitions. The lateral bathymetry also affects the spring-neap cycle of sediment suspension and deposition. In regions with broad, shallow shoals, the shoals are erosional and the channel is depositional during neap tides, with the opposite pattern during spring tides. Narrower, deeper shoals are depositional during neaps and erosional during springs. In each case, the lateral transfer is from regions of higher to lower bed stress, and depends on the elevation of the pycnocline relative to the bed. Collectively, the results indicate that lateral and along-channel gradients in bathymetry and thus stratification, bed stress, and sediment flux lead to an unsteady, heterogeneous distribution of sediment transport and trapping along the estuary rather than trapping solely at a turbidity maximum at the limit of the salinity intrusion.

Journal of Geophysical Research↗

USGS2012

Transient eddy formation around headlands

Eddies with length scales of 1-10 km are commonly observed in coastal waters and play an important role in the dispersion of water-borne materials. The generation and evolution of these eddies by oscillatory tidal flow around coastal headlands is investigated with analytical and nu merical models. Using shallow water depth-averaged vorticity dynamics, eddies are shown to form when flow separation occurs near the tip of the headland, causing intense vorticity generated along the headland to be injected into the interior. An analytic boundary layer model demonstrates that flow separation occurs when the pressure gradient along the boundary switches from favoring (ac celerating) to adverse (decelerating), and its occurrence depends principally on three parameters: the aspect ratio [b/a], where b and a are characteristic width and length scales of the headland; [H/CDa], where H is the water depth, CD is the depth-averaged drag coefficient; and [Uo/aa], where Uo and a are the magnitude and frequency of the far-field tidal flow. Simulations with a depth-averaged numerical model show a wide range of responses to changes in these parameters, including cases where no separation occurs, cases where only one eddy exists at a given time, and cases where bottom friction is weak enough that eddies produced during successive tidal cycles coexist, interacting strongly with each other. These simulations also demonstrate that in unsteady flow, a strong start-up vortex forms after the flow separates, leading to a much more intense patch of vorticity and stronger recirculation than found in steady flow.

Journal of Geophysical Research↗

USGS2012

The M2 tide on the Amazon Shelf

As part of A Multidisciplinary Amazon Shelf Sediment Study (AMASSEDS), moored and shipboard current measurements made over the Amazon shelf during 1990–1991 have been analyzed to determine the dominant semidiurnal tidal constituent, the M 2 . These results have been combined with coastal sea level data from within the Amazon and Para Rivers, the adjacent shelf, and with satellite‐derived tidal elevation data from off the shelf to provide a more complete description of the M 2 tide in this complex river/shelf system. Near the Amazon River mouth the M 2 tide propagates across the shelf and through the mouth as a damped progressive wave, with its amplitude decreasing and phase increasing upriver. Over the adjacent shelf north of Cabo Norte, the M 2 tide approaches a damped standing wave, with large amplitudes (greater than 1.5 m) near the coast due to near resonance within the coastal embayment formed by the Cabo Norte shoal to the south and Cabo Cassipore to the north. The observed M 2 tidal currents are nearly rectilinear and oriented primarily across the local isobaths. Comparisons between tidal observations in both the North Channel and the Cabo Norte‐Cabo Cassipore embayment and a simple variable‐width channel tidal model indicate that (1) most of the M 2 tidal energy dissipation occurs over the mid‐ and inner shelf (in water depths less than 20 m) and (2) fluid muds found there cause a significant reduction (of order 50%) in the effective bottom friction felt by the M 2 tide. The approximate resonant period of the Cabo Norte‐Cabo Cassipore embayment is 11.9 hours, and at resonance the average energy dissipation per forcing period is roughly 2.2 times the average mechanical energy in the embayment. This damping rate is large enough that the tidal amplification is rather insensitive to forcing frequency, so that the response of the embayment to forcing over the semidiurnal band should be essentially the same. The vertical structure of the M 2 tidal current is examined at one outer shelf site located in 65‐m water depth. The observed semimajor axis increases logarithmically with height above bottom within the lowest 1–2 m and reaches a maximum in excess of 0.5 m/s at approximately 11 m above bottom. The mean ellipticity is small (less than 0.1) and positive, indicating clockwise rotation of a nearly rectilinear current, and the semimajor axis is oriented within 10° of the local cross‐isobath direction. The M 2 phase increases with height above bottom, with flood at the bottom leading flood at the surface by about 1 hour. A simple, local homogeneous tidal model with time‐ and space‐dependent eddy viscosity simulates the observed near‐bottom velocity reasonably well, however, the model suggests that stratification above the lowest few meters may significantly affect the tidal boundary layer structure at this site. The M 2 energy flux onto the Amazon shelf and into the Amazon and Para Rivers has been estimated using current and surface elevation data and the best fit variable‐width channel model results. The net M 2 energy flux into the mouths of the Amazon and Para Rivers is 0.47×10 10 W and 0.19×10 10 W, respectively. A net M 2 energy flux of about 3.3×10 10 W occurs onto the shelf between the North Channel of the Amazon River and Cabo Cassipore. This stretch of the Amazon shelf accounts for about 1.3% of the global dissipation of the M 2 tide.

Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans↗

USGS2011

Toward a community coastal sediment transport modeling system: the second workshop

Models for transport and the long-term fate of particles in coastal waters are essential for a variety of applications related to commerce, defense, public health, and the quality of the marine environment. Examples include: analysis of waste disposal and transport and the fate of contaminated materials; evaluation of burial rates for naval mines or archaeological artifacts; prediction of water-column optical properties; analysis of transport and the fate of biological particles; prediction of coastal flooding and coastal erosion; evaluation of impacts of sea-level or wave-climate changes and coastal development; planning for construction and maintenance of navigable waterways; evaluation of habitat for commercial fisheries; evaluation of impacts of natural or anthropogenic changes in coastal conditions on recreational activities; and design of intakes and outfalls for sewage treatment, cooling systems, and desalination plants.

Eos, Transactions, American Geophysical Union↗

USGS2010

Sediment transport and deposition on a river-dominated tidal flat: An idealized model study

A 3-D hydrodynamic model is used to investigate how different size classes of river-derived sediment are transported, exported and trapped on an idealized, river-dominated tidal flat. The model is composed of a river channel flanked by sloping tidal flats, a configuration motivated by the intertidal region of the Skagit River mouth in Washington State, United States. It is forced by mixed tides and a pulse of freshwater and sediment with various settling velocities. In this system, the river not only influences stratification but also contributes a significant cross-shore transport. As a result, the bottom stress is strongly ebb-dominated in the channel because of the seaward advance of strong river flow as the tidal flats drain during ebbs. Sediment deposition patterns and mass budgets are sensitive to settling velocity. The lateral sediment spreading scales with an advective distance (settling time multiplied by lateral flow speed), thereby confining the fast settling sediment classes in the channel. Residual sediment transport is landward on the flats, because of settling lag, but is strongly seaward in the channel. The seaward transport mainly occurs during big ebbs and is controlled by a length scale ratio L d / X WL , where L d is a cross-shore advective distance (settling time multiplied by river outlet velocity), and X WL is the immersed cross-shore length of the intertidal zone. Sediment trapping requires L d / X WL < 1, leading to more trapping for the faster settling classes. Sensitivity studies show that including stratification and reducing tidal range both favor sediment trapping, whereas varying channel geometries and asymmetry of tides has relatively small impacts. Implications of the modeling results on the south Skagit intertidal region are discussed.

Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans↗

USGS2010

Using a composite grid approach in a complex coastal domain to estimate estuarine residence time

We investigate the processes that influence residence time in a partially mixed estuary using a three-dimensional circulation model. The complex geometry of the study region is not optimal for a structured grid model and so we developed a new method of grid connectivity. This involves a novel approach that allows an unlimited number of individual grids to be combined in an efficient manner to produce a composite grid. We then implemented this new method into the numerical Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) and developed a composite grid of the Hudson River estuary region to investigate the residence time of a passive tracer. Results show that the residence time is a strong function of the time of release (spring vs. neap tide), the along-channel location, and the initial vertical placement. During neap tides there is a maximum in residence time near the bottom of the estuary at the mid-salt intrusion length. During spring tides the residence time is primarily a function of along-channel location and does not exhibit a strong vertical variability. This model study of residence time illustrates the utility of the grid connectivity method for circulation and dispersion studies in regions of complex geometry.

Computers & Geosciences↗

USGS1992

A reassessment of the role of tidal dispersion in estuaries and bays

The role of tidal dispersion is reassessed, based on a consideration of the relevant physical mechanisms, particularly those elucidated by numerical simulations of tide-induced dispersion. It appears that the principal influence of tidal currents on dispersion occurs at length scales of the tidal excursion and smaller; thus the effectiveness of tidal dispersion depends on the relative scale of the tidal excursion to the spacing between major bathymetric and shoreline features. In estuaries where the typical spacing of topographic features is less than the tidal excursion, tidal dispersion may contribute significantly to the overall flushing. In estuaries and embayments in which the typical spacing between major features is larger than the tidal excursion, the influence of tidal dispersion will be localized, and it will not markedly contribute to overall flushing. Tidal dispersion is most pronounced in regions of abrupt topographic changes such as headlands and inlets, where flow separation occurs. The strong strain rate in the region of flow separation tends to stretch patches of fluid into long filaments, which are subsequently rolled up and distorted by the transient eddy field. The dispersion process accomplished by the tides varies strongly as a function of position and tidal phase and thus does not lend itself to parameterization by an eddy diffusion coefficient.

Estuaries↗

USGS1992

Physical oceanographic investigation of Massachusetts and Cape Cod Bays

This physical oceanographic study of the Massachusetts Bays (fig. 1) was designed to provide for the first time a bay-wide description of the circulation and mixing processes on a seasonal basis. Most of the measurements were conducted between April 1990 and June 1991 and consisted of moored observations to study the current flow patterns (fig. 2), hydrographic surveys to document the changes in water properties (fig. 3), high-resolution surveys of velocity and water properties to provide information on the spatial variability of the flow, drifter deployments to measure the currents, and acquisition of satellite images to provide a bay-wide picture of the surface temperature and its spatial variability. A longterm objective of the Massachusetts Bays program is to develop an understanding of the transport of water, dissolved substances and particles throughout the bays. Because horizontal and vertical transport is important to biological, chemical, and geological processes in Massachusetts and Cape Cod Bays, this physical oceanographic study will have broad application and will improve the ability to manage and monitor the water and sediment quality of the Bays. Key results are: There is a marked seasonal variation in stratification in the bays, from well mixed conditions during the winter to strong stratification in the summertime. The stratification acts as a partial barrier to exchange between the surface waters and the deeper waters and causes the motion of the surface waters to be decoupled from the more sluggish flow of the deep waters. During much of the year, there is weak but persistent counterclockwise flow around the bays, made up of southwesterly flow past Cape Ann, southward flow along the western shore, and outflow north of Race Point. The data suggest that this residual flow pattern reverses in fall. Fluctuations caused by wind and density variations are typically larger than the long-term mean. With the exception of western Massachusetts Bay, flushing of the Bays is largely the result of the mean throughflow. Residence time estimates of the surface waters range from 20-45 days. The deeper water has a longer residence time, but its value is difficult to estimate. There is evidence that the deep waters in Stellwagen Basin are not renewed between the onset of stratification and the fall cooling period. Current measurements made near the new outfall site in western Massachusetts Bay suggest that water and material discharged there are not swept away in a consistent direction by a well-defined steady current but are mixed and transported by a variety of processes, including the action of tides, winds, and river inflow. One-day particle excursions are typically less than 10 km. The outfall is apparently located in a region to the west of the basin-wide residual flow pattern. Observations in western Massachusetts Bay, near the location of the future Boston sewage outfall, show that the surficial sediments are episodically resuspended from the seafloor during storms. The observations suggest onshore transport of suspended material during tranquil periods and episodic offshore and southerly alongshore transport of resuspended sediments during storms. The spatial complexity of the flow in the Massachusetts Bays is typical of nearshore areas that have irregular coastal shorelines and topography and currents that are forced locally by wind and river runoff as well as by the flow in adjacent regions. Numerical models are providing a mechanism to interpret the complex spatial flow patterns that cannot be completely resolved by field observations and to investigate key physical processes that control the physics of water and particle transport.

Massachussetts↗

USGS1990

Numerical simulation of tidal dispersion around a coastal headland

Tidal flows around headlands can exhibit strong spatial gradients in the Eulerian currents, resulting in complex Lagrangian trajectories and dispersion of the vertically integrated flow. This typically occurs when the horizontal length scale of the headland is comparable to or smaller than the tidal excursion. The effects of these headlands on dispersion are investigated using a depthaveraged hydrodynamic model combined with a particle tracking model. The dispersion of patches of fluid is found to vary by more than an order of magnitude, depending both on position and tidal phase at the time of release. This is due to the infrequent interaction of material with the strongly sheared flow at the tip of the headland, where flow separation occurs during times of maximum tidal flow. Spreading of these patches over many tidal cycles is not Gaussian, but rather shows a patchy, streaky structure.

Book chapter↗