Geology topics

John C. Warner

Publications and source records attributed to John C. Warner.

At least 37 records · Page 2Linked to original sources

USGS2022

Modeling morphodynamics of coastal response to extreme events: What shape are we in?

This review focuses on recent advances in process-based numerical models of the impact of extreme storms on sandy coasts. Driven by larger-scale models of meteorology and hydrodynamics, these models simulate morphodynamics across the Sallenger storm-impact scale, including swash, collision, overwash, and inundation. Models are becoming both wider (as more processes are added) and deeper (as detailed physics replaces earlier parameterizations). Algorithms for wave-induced flows and sediment transport under shoaling waves are among the recent developments. Community and open-source models have become the norm. Observations of initial conditions (topography, land cover, and sediment characteristics) have become more detailed, and improvements in tropical cyclone and wave models provide forcing (winds, waves, surge, and upland flow) that is better resolved and more accurate, yielding commensurate improvements in model skill. We foresee that future storm-impact models will increasingly resolve individual waves, apply data assimilation, and be used in ensemble modeling modes to predict uncertainties.

Annual Review of Marine Science↗

USGS2022

Analysis of ocean dynamics during the impact of Hurricane Matthew using ocean-atmosphere coupling

The main goal of this investigation is to improve the understanding of ocean-atmosphere coupling during hurricanes. The present work involves the integration of the ocean-atmosphere coupled components of the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport Modeling System in the Very Short Term Prediction System (SisPI). Three experiments are performed: First, using a dynamic sea surface temperature, consistent with the daily updated atmospheric model Weather Research and Forecast (SisPI); second, using the Regional Oceanic Modeling System and third, using a dynamic coupling between the atmospheric and the oceanic models. The coupled system improves the tracks of the hurricane simulations respect to the SisPI. The use of the oceanic model allows a more detailed representation of the sea surface temperature. Using the coupled model, a more precise diurnal cycle of the surface net heat fluxes is obtained.

Cuban Journal of Meteorology (Revista Cubana de Me↗

USGS2021

Summary of oceanographic and water-quality measurements offshore of Matanzas Inlet, Florida, 2018

U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) scientists and technical staff deployed instrumented underwater platforms and buoys to collect oceanographic and atmospheric data at two sites near Matanzas Inlet, Florida, on January 24, 2018, and recovered them on April 13, 2018. Matanzas Inlet is a natural, unmaintained inlet on the Florida Atlantic coast that is well suited to study inlet and cross-shore processes. The two study sites were located offshore of the surf zone, in 9 and 15 meters of water depth, in a line perpendicular to the coast. A sea-floor platform was deployed at each site to measure ocean currents, wave motions, acoustic and optical backscatter, temperature, salinity, and pressure. The objective was to quantify the hydrodynamic forcing for sediment transport and the response to such forcing near the seabed in the vicinity of an unmaintained inlet.

Florida↗

USGS2021

Hydrometeorology and hydrology of flooding in Cape Fear River basin during Hurricane Florence in 2018

Hurricanes are the major flood generating mechanism dominating the upper tail of the peak discharge distribution over the Cape Fear River Basin (CFRB). In 2018, Hurricane Florence swamped CFRB as the ninth-most-destructive hurricane ever hit the United States and set new records of peak discharges over the main river channel and three out of five of its major tributaries. In this study, we examined the hydrometeorology and hydrology of this flood via combined observation and numerical experiment analyses. Our results suggest that the slow-motion in combination to the “L-shaped” path was the most distinctive feature of the hurricane that incurred catastrophic and widespread rainfall and flooding over CFRB. The total rainfall from the storm played a controlling role in the magnitude and spatial distribution of the flood peaks at basin scale. Above that, the spatial heterogeneities of rainfall distribution and hydrologic characteristics was responsible for the distinctive flood responses within the basin. The bi-peak shape of the flood hydrograph for the Deep River was due to the combined effects of rainfall distribution, land cover, and topographic gradient. The exceptional unit peak discharge over the Black River basin was associated with its drainage network structure, topographic gradient and rainfall distribution. The floodplain downstream of the Cape Fear River temporarily stored flood water and attenuated both the riverine floods from upstream and the compound flood over the coastal area. Furthermore, numerical analyses found that re-infiltration accounted for 76% of the total infiltration on average. Re-infiltration was superior to local infiltration over CFRB during Hurricane Florence.

North Carolina↗

USGS2021

Impact of SST and surface waves on Hurricane Florence (2018): A coupled modeling investigation

Hurricane Florence (2018) devastated the coastal communities of the Carolinas through heavy rainfall that resulted in massive flooding. Florence was characterized by an abrupt reduction in intensity (Saffir-Simpson Category 4 to Category 1) just prior to landfall and synoptic-scale interactions that stalled the storm over the Carolinas for several days. We conducted a series of numerical modeling experiments in coupled and uncoupled configurations to examine the impact of sea surface temperature (SST) and ocean waves on storm characteristics. In addition to experiments using a fully coupled atmosphere-ocean-wave model, we introduced the capability of the atmospheric model to modulate wind stress and surface fluxes by oceanwaves through data from an uncoupled wave model. We examined these experiments by comparing track, intensity, strength, SST, storm structure, wave height, surface roughness, heat fluxes, and precipitation in order to determine the impacts of resolving ocean conditions with varying degrees of coupling. We found differences in the storm’s intensity and strength, with the best correlation coefficient of intensity (r=0.89) and strength (r=0.95) coming from the fully-coupled simulations. Further analysis into surface roughness parameterizations added to the atmospheric model revealed differences in the spatial distribution and magnitude of the largest roughness lengths. Adding ocean andwave features to the model further modified the fluxes due to more realistic cooling beneath the stormwhich in turn modified the precipitation field. Our experiments highlight significant differences in how air-sea processes impact hurricane modeling. The storm characteristics of track, intensity, strength, and precipitation at landfall are crucial to predictability and forecasting of future landfalling hurricanes.

Weather and Forecasting↗

USGS2020

Using tracer variance decay to quantify variability of salinity mixing in the Hudson River Estuary

The salinity structure in an estuary is controlled by time‐dependent mixing processes. However, the locations and temporal variability of where significant mixing occurs is not well‐understood. Here we utilize a tracer variance approach to demonstrate the spatial and temporal structure of salinity mixing in the Hudson River Estuary. We run a 4‐month hydrodynamic simulation of the tides, currents, and salinity that captures the spring‐neap tidal variability as well as wind‐driven and freshwater flow events. On a spring‐neap time scale, salinity variance dissipation (mixing) occurs predominantly during the transition from neap to spring tides. On a tidal time scale, 60% of the salinity variance dissipation occurs during ebb tides and 40% during flood tides. Spatially, mixing during ebbs occurs primarily where lateral bottom salinity fronts intersect the bed at the transition from the main channel to adjacent shoals. During ebbs, these lateral fronts form seaward of constrictions located at multiple locations along the estuary. During floods, mixing is generated by a shear layer elevated in the water column at the top of the mixed bottom boundary layer, where variations in the along channel density gradients locally enhance the baroclinic pressure gradient leading to stronger vertical shear and more mixing. For both ebb and flood, the mixing occurs at the location of overlap of strong vertical stratification and eddy diffusivity, not at the maximum of either of those quantities. This understanding lends a new insight to the spatial and time dependence of the estuarine salinity structure.

Hudson River↗

USGS2020

Evaluation of a roughness length parametrization accounting for wind–wave alignment in a coupled atmosphere–wave model

The importance of wind energy as an alternative energy source has increased over the latest years with more focus on offshore winds. A good estimation of the offshore winds is thus of major importance for this industry. Up to now the effect of the wind–wave (mis)alignment has not yet been taken into account in coupled atmosphere–wave models to study the vertical wind profile and power production estimations of offshore wind farms. In this study the roughness length parametrization of Drennan et al . in 2003, and its extension addressing the wind–wave (mis)alignment proposed by Porchetta et al . in 2019, are investigated in the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) model. This study shows that the yearly mean wind estimation at hub height (100 m) is improved by the roughness length parametrization of Porchetta et al . compared to Drennan. This is mainly due to the increased roughness of the former parametrization compare to the latter, even in aligned wind–wave conditions. This difference in roughness is caused by the dataset used to obtain the constants, deep‐water conditions versus mixed offshore conditions. Moreover, the roughness length parametrization of Porchetta et al . performs better in two of three alignment categories. Furthermore, similar model performances are obtained if we exclude the wind directions from the wind shadow zone of the measurement mast or the wind directions from the recently built Alpha Ventus wind farm, which is in close vicinity of the measurement mast. Investigating different wind conditions shows that the new roughness length parametrization of Porchetta et al . performs best for both offshore and onshore winds. Additionally, we show that the coupled model estimations of the vertical wind are only slightly affected by significant wave height estimations. Similar model performances for different accuracies of significant wave height estimations are presented. One exception is the perpendicular alignment category where the new roughness length of Porchetta et al . outperforms the roughness length of Drennan when investigating the wind estimations related to significant wave heights with a higher accuracy. The roughness length parametrization of Porchetta et al . reduced the power production overestimation of the coupled model from 5.7 to 2.8%. We also show that the standalone atmospheric model including the roughness length of Charnock in 1955 has a degraded performance compared to the coupled model including the roughness length parametrization of Porchetta et al . for yearly average wind profiles.

Quarterly Journal of the Royal Meteorological Soci↗

USGS2020

Meteotsunamis triggered by tropical cyclones

Tropical cyclones are one of the most destructive natural hazards and much of the damage and casualties they cause are flood-related. Accurate characterization and prediction of total water levels during extreme storms is necessary to minimize coastal impacts. While meteotsunamis are known to influence water levels and to produce severe consequences, they have been disregarded during tropical cyclones. This study demonstrates that meteotsunami waves commonly occur during tropical cyclones, and that they can significantly contribute to total water levels. We have discovered that the most extreme meteotsunami events were triggered by inherent features of the structure of tropical cyclones: inner and outer spiral rainbands. While outer distant spiral rainbands produced single-peak meteotsunami waves, inner spiral rainbands triggered longer lasting (~12 hours) wave trains on the front side of the tropical cyclones. We use an idealized coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave numerical model to analyze TC meteotsunami generation and propagation mechanisms.

Nature Communications↗

USGS2020

Wave-resolving Shoreline Boundary Conditions for Wave-Averaged Coastal Models

Downscaling broadscale ocean model information to resolve the fine-scale swash-zone dynamics has a number of applications, such as improved resolution of coastal flood hazard drivers, modeling of sediment transport and seabed morphological evolution. A new method is presented, which enables wave-averaged models for the nearshore circulation to include short-wave induced swash zone dynamics that evolve at the wave group scale (i.e. averaged over the short waves). Such dynamics, which cannot be described, by construction through wave-averaged models, play a fundamental role in nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. The method is based on the implementation of a set of Shoreline Boundary Conditions (SBCs) in wave-averaged models. The chosen set of SBCs allows for proper computation of the short-wave properties at a mean shoreline () taken as the envelope of the actual shoreline. The suitability of the approach is assessed through implementation of the SBCs into the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) coupled to a spectral wave model (InWave for IG waves and SWAN for wind waves). As the aim is to assess the viability of the approach, the SBCs are implemented only through a one-way coupling to ROMS (i.e. ROMS forcing the SBCs). Four different test cases – with constant, periodic and bichromatic offshore forcing – are run to assess the model performances. The main results of the analysis are: (a) the proposed SBCs can well reproduce the shoreline motion and swash zone dynamics in there for all chosen tests (RMSE and BIAS less than 20 % up to a cross-shore resolution of 4.0 m ( or )) and (b) implementation of the SBCs allows ROMS to accurately simulate the swash zone flows even at a resolution 40 times coarser than that needed by ROMS with its own wet–dry routine to properly describe the same flows. The latter result clearly demonstrates the major computational advantage of using the proposed SBCs. We also show that most of the swash zone dynamics is due to the mean flow (i.e. incoming Riemann variable) and the local (at ) wave height. However, especially in the case of bichromatic waves, the swash zone water volume content also seems to play a crucial role.

Ocean Modeling↗

USGS2019

Comparison of physical to numerical mixing with different tracer advection schemes in estuarine environments

The numerical simulation of estuarine dynamics requires accurate prediction for the transport of tracers such as temperature and salinity. During the simulation of these processes, all numerical models introduce two kinds of tracer mixing: 1) by parameterizing the tracer eddy diffusivity through turbulence models leading to a source of physical mixing and 2) discretization of the tracer advection term that leads to numerical mixing. Both physical and numerical mixing vary with the choice of horizontal advection schemes, grid resolution, and time step. By simulating four idealized cases, this study compares physical and numerical mixing for three different tracer advection schemes. Idealized domains involving only physical and numerical mixing are used to verify the implementation of mixing terms by equating them to total tracer variance. Among the three horizontal advection schemes, the scheme that causes the least numerical mixing while maintaining a sharp front also results in larger physical mixing. Instantaneous spatial comparison of mixing components shows that physical mixing is dominant in regions of large vertical gradients while numerical mixing dominates at sharp fronts that contain large horizontal tracer gradients. In the case of estuaries, numerical mixing may dominate locally over physical mixing; however, the amount of volume integrated numerical mixing through the domain compared to integrated physical mixing remains relatively small for this particular modeling system.

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering↗

USGS2019

Investigating bedload transport under asymmetrical waves using a coupled ocean-wave model

Transport by asymmetrical wave motions plays a key role in cross-shore movement of sand, which is important for bar migration, exchange through tidal inlets, and beach recovery after storms. We have implemented a modified version of the SANTOSS formulation in the three-dimensional open-source Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling framework. The calculation of bedload transport requires inputs that include: water depth, bulk wave statistics (significant wave height, wave period, wave orbital velocity), current velocity at the edge of the wave boundary layer, and sediment density and grain size. While the coupled ocean-wave model computes water density, depth, and bulk wave statistics, we implement a method to calculate current velocity assuming a log profile and using the Madsen formulations for wave-current bottom boundary layer flows. We investigate the sensitivity of the calculation of near-bottom current velocity to model choices and its influence on cross-shore bedload transport. Results are compared to available numerical experiments using coupled fluid and discrete element model (CFDEM) simulations.

Conference Paper↗

USGS2019

Alongshore momentum balance over shoreface-connected ridges, Fire Island, NY

Hydrodynamic and hydrographic data collected on the inner shelf of Fire Island, NY, over a region of shoreface-connected ridges (SFCRs) are used to describe wind-driven circulation over uneven topographies along relatively straight coastlines. The data revealed a predominantly alongshore flow, under westward wind forcing, with localized offshore current veering over the SFCR crests associated with an onshore veering over the adjacent troughs. Momentum balance analysis of the observations revealed that local acceleration, advective acceleration, and bottom stress are balanced by wind stress and regional (>100 km) pressure gradient force. Numerical model results based on simulations of an idealized SFCR bathymetry, as in Warner et al. (2014) but forced with the observed winds, are used to verify the experimentally derived results and constraint inaccuracies in the momentum balance term relationships revealed using the field data. As with previous SFCR studies, our experimental results indicate a current veering over ridge crests. Veering is driven primarily by two processes: cross-shore variation of alongshore advective acceleration which creates cross-shore pressure gradient and drives flow (described as a Bernoulli-like process), and, bottom frictional-torque. A synthesis of the numerical and experimental data revealed that the total pressure gradient force can be considered as the sum of a local and a regional pressure gradient force. The former is correlated with the alongshore advective acceleration that develops over the crest of the ridges resembling a Bernoulli-like pressure-flow relationship. The regional pressure gradient force is related to wind stress with which maintains a strong, negative relationship. The realistic driving force analysis revealed the different contributions of the local and regional scale pressure gradients. Under realistic and variable wind conditions the regional pressure gradients are more important and the influence of the local scale pressure gradient increases as the flow reaches quasi steady-state conditions. A time scale of 6 hours was defined as the temporal scale required for the local pressure gradients to have an effect

New York↗

USGS2019

Relevance of wind stress and wave-dependent ocean surface roughness on the generation of winter meteotsunamis in Northern Gulf of Mexico

Meteotsunamis associated with passing squall lines are often observed ahead of cold fronts during winter seasons in Northern Gulf of Mexico. These types of meteotsunamis occur simultaneously with wind speed variations (~5-20 m/s) and sea-level atmospheric pressure oscillations (~1-6 hPa) with periods between 2 hours to several minutes. In order to enhance understanding of meteotsunami generation and propagation mechanisms, a Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system is applied to one of the most intense winter meteotsunamis measured in Northern Gulf of Mexico in the last decade (2009-2018). The model verification with sea level and atmospheric observations show that the fully-coupled model is able to reproduce the timing and intensity of the 10-m wind and sea level atmospheric pressure fluctuations. The mean bias between observed and measured wind speeds and atmospheric pressure are 1.73 m/s and 0.63 hPa respectively. The maximum meteotsunami elevation and its timing are successfully captured by modeled (with a 7% underestimation of the maximum elevation). The relative effect of atmospheric pressure and wind stress divergence on meteotsunami generation is assessed with different numerical simulations. Results indicate that both wind stress and atmospheric pressure oscillations contributed to the generation of the meteotsunami. Wind stress was the dominant force in shallow waters (<15 m in this application), while the effects of atmospheric pressure disturbances dominated over areas with Froude number close to one (~40 m in this application). During the passage of the squall line, the sea surface became rougher in a sea state characterized by young and steep local ocean waves. Compared to a purely wind-speed-dependent roughness scheme, the application of a wave-dependent roughness parameterization improved in 37% modeled meteotsunami maximum elevation.

Northern Gulf of Mexico↗

USGS2019

Wave-current interaction between Hurricane Matthew wave fields and the Gulf Stream

Hurricanes interact with the Gulf Stream in the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) through a wide variety of processes, which are crucial to understand for prediction of open-ocean and coastal hazards during storms. However, it remains unclear how waves are modified by large-scale ocean currents under storm conditions, when waves are aligned with the storm-driven circulation and tightly coupled to the overlying wind field. Hurricane Matthew (2016) impacted the US southeast coast, causing extensive coastal change due to large waves and elevated water levels. The hurricane traveled on the continental shelf parallel to the SAB coastline, with the right side of the hurricane directly over the Gulf Stream. Using the Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave Sediment Transport Modeling System, we investigate wave-current interaction between Hurricane Matthew and the Gulf Stream. The model simulates ocean currents and waves over a grid encompassing the US east coast, with varied coupling of the hydrodynamic and wave components to isolate the effect of the currents on the waves, and the effect of the Gulf Stream relative to storm-driven circulation. The Gulf Stream modifies the direction of the storm-driven currents beneath the right side of the hurricane. Waves transitioned from following currents that result in wave lengthening, through negative current gradients that result in wave steepening and dissipation. Wave-current interaction over the Gulf Stream modified maximum coastal total water levels, and changed incident wave directions at the coast by up to 20°, with strong implications for the morphodynamic response and stability of the coast to the hurricane.

East Coast, Gulf Coast↗

USGS2017

Persistent shoreline shape induced from offshore geologic framework: Effects of shoreface connected ridges

Mechanisms relating offshore geologic framework to shoreline evolution are determined through geologic investigations, oceanographic deployments, and numerical modeling. Analysis of shoreline positions from the past 50 years along Fire Island, New York, a 50 km long barrier island, demonstrates a persistent undulating shape along the western half of the island. The shelf offshore of these persistent undulations is characterized with shoreface-connected sand ridges (SFCR) of a similar alongshore length scale, leading to a hypothesis that the ridges control the shoreline shape through the modification of flow. To evaluate this, a hydrodynamic model was configured to start with the US East Coast and scale down to resolve the Fire Island nearshore. The model was validated using observations along western Fire Island and buoy data, and used to compute waves, currents and sediment fluxes. To isolate the influence of the SFCR on the generation of the persistent shoreline shape, simulations were performed with a linearized nearshore bathymetry to remove alongshore transport gradients associated with shoreline shape. The model accurately predicts the scale and variation of the alongshore transport that would generate the persistent shoreline undulations. In one location, however, the ridge crest connects to the nearshore and leads to an offshore-directed transport that produces a difference in the shoreline shape. This qualitatively supports the hypothesized effect of cross-shore fluxes on coastal evolution. Alongshore flows in the nearshore during a representative storm are driven by wave breaking, vortex force, advection and pressure gradient, all of which are affected by the SFCR.

New York↗

USGS2017

Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged in the surf zone

To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave-breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore-directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking-wave-driven-setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking-wave-driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore-directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans↗

USGS2017

Development of a coupled wave-flow-vegetation interaction model

Emergent and submerged vegetation can significantly affect coastal hydrodynamics. However, most deterministic numerical models do not take into account their influence on currents, waves, and turbulence. In this paper, we describe the implementation of a wave-flow-vegetation module into a Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system that includes a flow model (ROMS) and a wave model (SWAN), and illustrate various interacting processes using an idealized shallow basin application. The flow model has been modified to include plant posture-dependent three-dimensional drag, in-canopy wave-induced streaming, and production of turbulent kinetic energy and enstrophy to parameterize vertical mixing. The coupling framework has been updated to exchange vegetation-related variables between the flow model and the wave model to account for wave energy dissipation due to vegetation. This study i) demonstrates the validity of the plant posture-dependent drag parameterization against field measurements, ii) shows that the model is capable of reproducing the mean and turbulent flow field in the presence of vegetation as compared to various laboratory experiments, iii) provides insight into the flow-vegetation interaction through an analysis of the terms in the momentum balance, iv) describes the influence of a submerged vegetation patch on tidal currents and waves separately and combined, and v) proposes future directions for research and development.

Computers & Geosciences↗

USGS2017

Observations and 3D hydrodynamics-based modeling of decadal-scale shoreline change along the Outer Banks, North Carolina

Long-term decadal-scale shoreline change is an important parameter for quantifying the stability of coastal systems. The decadal-scale coastal change is controlled by processes that occur on short time scales (such as storms) and long-term processes (such as prevailing waves). The ability to predict decadal-scale shoreline change is not well established and the fundamental physical processes controlling this change are not well understood. Here we investigate the processes that create large-scale long-term shoreline change along the Outer Banks of North Carolina, an uninterrupted 60 km stretch of coastline, using both observations and a numerical modeling approach. Shoreline positions for a 24-yr period were derived from aerial photographs of the Outer Banks. Analysis of the shoreline position data showed that, although variable, the shoreline eroded an average of 1.5 m/yr throughout this period. The modeling approach uses a three-dimensional hydrodynamics-based numerical model coupled to a spectral wave model and simulates the full 24-yr time period on a spatial grid running on a short (second scale) time-step to compute the sediment transport patterns. The observations and the model results show similar magnitudes (O(10 5 m 3 /yr)) and patterns of alongshore sediment fluxes. Both the observed and the modeled alongshore sediment transport rates have more rapid changes at the north of our section due to continuously curving coastline, and possible effects of alongshore variations in shelf bathymetry. The southern section with a relatively uniform orientation, on the other hand, has less rapid transport rate changes. Alongshore gradients of the modeled sediment fluxes are translated into shoreline change rates that have agreement in some locations but vary in others. Differences between observations and model results are potentially influenced by geologic framework processes not included in the model. Both the observations and the model results show higher rates of erosion (∼−1 m/yr) averaged over the northern half of the section as compared to the southern half where the observed and modeled averaged net shoreline changes are smaller (<0.1 m/yr). The model indicates accretion in some shallow embayments, whereas observations indicate erosion in these locations. Further analysis identifies that the magnitude of net alongshore sediment transport is strongly dominated by events associated with high wave energy. However, both big- and small- wave events cause shoreline change of the same order of magnitude because it is the gradients in transport, not the magnitude, that are controlling shoreline change. Results also indicate that alongshore momentum is not a simple balance between wave breaking and bottom stress, but also includes processes of horizontal vortex force, horizontal advection and pressure gradient that contribute to long-term alongshore sediment transport. As a comparison to a more simple approach, an empirical formulation for alongshore sediment transport is used. The empirical estimates capture the effect of the breaking term in the hydrodynamics-based model, however, other processes that are accounted for in the hydrodynamics-based model improve the agreement with the observed alongshore sediment transport.

North Carolina↗