Geology topics

Ap van Dongeran

Publications and source records attributed to Ap van Dongeran.

3 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2019

Modeling the morphological response of a barrier island to Hurricane Matthew

Surge and wave forcing from Hurricane Matthew caused a breach south of Matanzas Inlet (FL, USA) on a complex barrier island, including sandy dunes, hard structures (residential buildings and a highway), wetlands, and the US Intracoastal Waterway. In this paper, the skill of the XBeach model to predict hurricane-induced barrier island overwash, dune erosion, and breaching is demonstrated. The location of the breach is predicted correctly if bottom roughness based on land cover is used to calculate bed shear stresses. While the dunes are initially lowered by wave attack and surge from the ocean side, the main driver for breach formation is the water level difference between the back-barrier and nearshore, causing an ocean-directed outflow of water after the peak of the storm.

Florida↗

USGS2017

Wave dynamics and flooding on low-lying tropical reef-lined coasts

Many tropical islands and coasts are lined with coral reefs. These reefs are host to valuable ecosystems that support abundant marine species and provide resources for fisheries and recreation. As a flood defense, reefs protect coastlines from coastal storm damage and flooding by reducing the majority of incident wave energy. However, during storm and large swell conditions, coastal wave-driven flooding and overwash still occur due to high water levels, (infra) gravity waves, and/or low-frequency wave resonance. The wave and flooding effects cause erosion, damage to infrastructure, agricultural crops, and salinization of precious drinking water supplies. These impacts, which are likely to increase due to climate change and ongoing development on the islands, may cause many low-lying tropical islands and coastal areas to become uninhabitable before the end of the century. This paper investigates aspects of wave dynamics for the case of a small island in the tropical Pacific Ocean, shows projections of flooding under climate change scenarios, and outlines approaches to generalize the results to other islands, including mitigation options.

Conference Paper↗

USGS2016

Identification and classification of very low frequency waves on a coral reef flat

Very low frequency (VLF, 0.001–0.005 Hz) waves are important drivers of flooding of low-lying coral reef-islands. In particular, VLF wave resonance is known to drive large wave runup and subsequent overwash. Using a 5 month data set of water levels and waves collected along a cross-reef transect on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands, the observed VLF motions were categorized into four different classes: (1) resonant, (2) (nonresonant) standing, (3) progressive-growing, and (4) progressive-dissipative waves. Each VLF class is set by the reef flat water depth and, in the case of resonance, the incident-band offshore wave period. Using an improved method to identify VLF wave resonance, we find that VLF wave resonance caused prolonged (&sim;0.5–6.0 h), large-amplitude water surface oscillations at the inner reef flat ranging in wave height from 0.14 to 0.83 m. It was induced by relatively long-period, grouped, incident-band waves, and occurred under both storm and nonstorm conditions. Moreover, observed resonant VLF waves had nonlinear, bore-like wave shapes, which likely have a larger impact on the shoreline than regular, sinusoidal waveforms. As an alternative technique to the commonly used Fast Fourier Transformation, we propose the Hilbert-Huang Transformation that is more computationally expensive but can capture the wave shape more accurately. This research demonstrates that understanding VLF waves on reef flats is important for evaluating coastal flooding hazards.

Roi-Namur Island↗